A Forum for Scooter Enthusiasts, Scooter Chargers, and Scooter Mechanics.

#9526
Joejones wrote:
Wed May 22, 2019 4:56 pm
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Hey yall. My friend was too spooked to make her own acct. She thinks she set it up right. Is there anything you see wrong? It wont turn but she thinks the batts dead. How do yall charge it? The bottom.

Thanks

Oh my, that is a mess.

1st step, use the plugs on the original controller, snip them off at the base so that way you can solder your own sires to the plug and use the plug connection so it's much cleaner.

the thinner wires from the plug are the hall wires, the thicker ones are the 3 phase ac motor power wires


the 2 wires from the charging port, go down straight to the battery, they have a white connection.
#9587
baboon63 wrote:
Tue May 21, 2019 9:38 am
miss_c wrote:
Sat May 18, 2019 7:20 am
Mathias Kjeldsen wrote:
Thu May 16, 2019 9:16 pm


It's probably the battery's BMS that shuts off. It can't handle the current. You need a stronger/bigger battery. Do you have a scooter with an extra external battery? If not - start there. Also, try to see if it is better when fully charged - if so = too much current (ampere) for the battery.
It's better with the external battery....
but i have the same issue.....when i'm driving on a plane road, the motor shut off after a few seconds, and erey time it's go up, the motor shut off very soon...

i have the original ninebot motor, the original ninebot motor, the original ninebot trottle....and i'm keeping the original board for the charging function...

what can i do ? do you think it's my chinese ali board who have problem ? or maybe the battery ?
My scooter works fine before i make conversion....it's crazy....
Hi, I had the exact same issue, I concluded the problem was due to the BMS shutting down the current, so I opened the external battery and replaced the Segway BMS with a generic 10S BMS with balance function (make sure the BMS fits in the enclosure, I had to remove the aluminium heatsink) and now I can ride the scooter up to 34 km/h! Make sure you know that you're doing as you're dealing with high currents and potential shortages!
thanks baboon63 for your sharing
What is your way to think about the bms is the source of the problem ?
Do you make any electrical measurements to identify the problem?
the bms is an interested way, but i'm thinking tha the bms is just a management board for balancing charging between the elements. Maybe i'm wrong...
#9595
Joejones wrote:
Wed May 22, 2019 4:56 pm
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Hey yall. My friend was too spooked to make her own acct. She thinks she set it up right. Is there anything you see wrong? It wont turn but she thinks the batts dead. How do yall charge it? The bottom.

Thanks
It took me four or five times to rewire my scooter until I was happy with it. As previously posted, get yourself a soldering iron and cut the plugs you can't use off the new controller, cut the plugs off the old controller and splice the wires. I highly recommend getting some heat shrink, it'll look and work better than tape To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
#9600
math wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 6:27 am
Joejones wrote:
Wed May 22, 2019 4:56 pm

Hey yall. My friend was too spooked to make her own acct. She thinks she set it up right. Is there anything you see wrong? It wont turn but she thinks the batts dead. How do yall charge it? The bottom.

Thanks

Oh my, that is a mess.

1st step, use the plugs on the original controller, snip them off at the base so that way you can solder your own sires to the plug and use the plug connection so it's much cleaner.

the thinner wires from the plug are the hall wires, the thicker ones are the 3 phase ac motor power wires


the 2 wires from the charging port, go down straight to the battery, they have a white connection.

yeswhat478 wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 4:11 pm
Joejones wrote:
Wed May 22, 2019 4:56 pm

Hey yall. My friend was too spooked to make her own acct. She thinks she set it up right. Is there anything you see wrong? It wont turn but she thinks the batts dead. How do yall charge it? The bottom.

Thanks
It took me four or five times to rewire my scooter until I was happy with it. As previously posted, get yourself a soldering iron and cut the plugs you can't use off the new controller, cut the plugs off the old controller and splice the wires. I highly recommend getting some heat shrink, it'll look and work better than tape To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
Thanks for the help guys. Ill let her know. this was her first go around
#9806
Trying to remove the screws at the bottom of the lime scooter (The reinforced part of the shaft) but it's so tight! I've used my torx and pliers and heated it up with a lighter but it just wont budge! How can you unscrew it( I think it's got red loctite)?
Also, what kind of hex key would I need to get into the battery pack in the shaft?
#9808
Chestbruh wrote:
Fri May 24, 2019 11:39 pm
Trying to remove the screws at the bottom of the lime scooter (The reinforced part of the shaft) but it's so tight! I've used my torx and pliers and heated it up with a lighter but it just wont budge! How can you unscrew it( I think it's got red loctite)?
Also, what kind of hex key would I need to get into the battery pack in the shaft?
If you have, using a t-handle helps or if your bit driver has a hole in the top of the handle put something through there, once they're out once they come out easier. Otherwise borrow an impact driver. I'm pretty sure it's a 3mm hex for the battery pack, they fasten the metal plate onto a rubber seal which keeps the battery from sliding out.
#9809
yeswhat478 wrote:
Sat May 25, 2019 5:35 am
Chestbruh wrote:
Fri May 24, 2019 11:39 pm
Trying to remove the screws at the bottom of the lime scooter (The reinforced part of the shaft) but it's so tight! I've used my torx and pliers and heated it up with a lighter but it just wont budge! How can you unscrew it( I think it's got red loctite)?
Also, what kind of hex key would I need to get into the battery pack in the shaft?
If you have, using a t-handle helps or if your bit driver has a hole in the top of the handle put something through there, once they're out once they come out easier. Otherwise borrow an impact driver. I'm pretty sure it's a 3mm hex for the battery pack, they fasten the metal plate onto a rubber seal which keeps the battery from sliding out.
Thanks! Unfortunately I'm only using a screwdriver haha. Have an impact drill on the way but would this provide enough torque to get it out? To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
#9831
Chestbruh wrote:
Sat May 25, 2019 5:38 am
yeswhat478 wrote:
Sat May 25, 2019 5:35 am
Chestbruh wrote:
Fri May 24, 2019 11:39 pm
Trying to remove the screws at the bottom of the lime scooter (The reinforced part of the shaft) but it's so tight! I've used my torx and pliers and heated it up with a lighter but it just wont budge! How can you unscrew it( I think it's got red loctite)?
Also, what kind of hex key would I need to get into the battery pack in the shaft?
If you have, using a t-handle helps or if your bit driver has a hole in the top of the handle put something through there, once they're out once they come out easier. Otherwise borrow an impact driver. I'm pretty sure it's a 3mm hex for the battery pack, they fasten the metal plate onto a rubber seal which keeps the battery from sliding out.
Thanks! Unfortunately I'm only using a screwdriver haha. Have an impact drill on the way but would this provide enough torque to get it out? To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
With this shape, you can always put it inside longer pipe for more torque
#9842
Pon. 20 maja, 2019 21:45
Witam wszystkich. Potrzebuję pomocy w prowadzeniu wapna.Posiada taką kontrolę. Czytam posty na forum i napisano, że Europa jest problemem z uruchomieniem. Dziękuję za pomoc.
Obraz
Obraz
Obraz
Wygląda na to, że nie dziewięć. W takim przypadku po prostu wyrzuć deskę rozdzielczą i panel sterowania, a zamiast tego użyj chińskiego sterownika silnika 36v / 350w.

All I need to do is replace the control panel, and the board is not needed.
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https://i.imgur.com/7wXHdpl.jpg

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