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+1000w controller for zero build - Page 4 - Scooter Talk

Electric Scooter Forum for Scooter Enthusiasts, Scooter Chargers, and Scooter Mechanics.

Brains of the e-scooter. Topics covering controllers, throttles, etc in this section.
User avatar
By 365GUY
Posts LikeBB Avatar
#11557
TJ,
Did you get your throttle working?
If not you might need to see if you have a grey wire set. I had to cut mine to get the throttle working.
Also LA is right on with the high speed setting, I would have never figured that out and been rolling at half speed. Just cut that shit plug off and connect the white and black and that will give you high speed scooter action

So far I’m pretty happy with the 1000 watt controller from amazon. It handles overvolting just fine and hasn’t given me any problems yet. I just took it up a fairly big mountain we have here by my house and it powered up like a champ.


By galstaf
Posts LikeBB
#11721
365GUY wrote:
Sun Jun 09, 2019 8:08 am
TJ,
Did you get your throttle working?
If not you might need to see if you have a grey wire set. I had to cut mine to get the throttle working.
Also LA is right on with the high speed setting, I would have never figured that out and been rolling at half speed. Just cut that shit plug off and connect the white and black and that will give you high speed scooter action

So far I’m pretty happy with the 1000 watt controller from amazon. It handles overvolting just fine and hasn’t given me any problems yet. I just took it up a fairly big mountain we have here by my house and it powered up like a champ.

Hey 365,

Just out of curiosity, is the 1000w still holding up? Also can you send me a link to exactly which one you got from Amazon? I am looking for one that can handle a range of voltage between 36 and at least 48V.

Cheers man... Love the new sit down ride!

User avatar
By 365GUY
Posts LikeBB Avatar
#11762
Current build.. going for a mini military style scooter bike. Kinda hard to make these things look cool but will see how it turns out.
The giant battery is going to mount vertically on the seat post rail. The ES battery will power lights and usb via a step down buck converter.
So 100 cells plus the 12 for the overvolt.. 112 cells.. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

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galstaf, TJSplash liked this

By galstaf
Posts LikeBB
#11764
365GUY wrote:
Fri Jun 14, 2019 7:04 am
Current build.. going for a mini military style scooter bike. Kinda hard to make these things look cool but will see how it turns out.
The giant battery is going to mount vertically on the seat post rail. The ES battery will power lights and usb via a step down buck converter.
So 100 cells plus the 12 for the overvolt.. 112 cells.. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

Nice! Could you send a link for that ESC please.. You said it had been pretty solid right?


User avatar
By 365GUY
Posts LikeBB Avatar
#11834
It works, can’t really say it’s solid because I haven’t put many miles on it. But it’s the only one I have got that has worked like it’s supposed to. Hopefully it will last.
I actually had amazon send me another one because I opened it up and some of the solder jobs looked pretty shitty. So I have another one coming and will compare them before I send one back.
You are crazy not to use amazon when buying this shit, the return process is by far worth paying a little more for stuff because chances are it’s going to crap out. Especially when your overvolting and doing custom stuff.

User avatar
By TJSplash
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#12888
So far I've toasted the last of my m365 controllers, but moved on to the 1000w controllers. I switched back to a one motor build with hand brake because of the lack of electronic regain hookups. I'm haven't ordered the 1000w motors yet, so in the meantime I've been experimenting. I killed a zero motor with the 1000w controller and I also built a two wheel m365 with the other 1000w controller, but I'm starting have issues with the two wheels. I'm wondering if I cut the hall sensors off of one of the wheels if it would cause it to work properly with timing. I thought that having two wheels hooked up to the thousand watt controller would increase the odds of it actually working versus destroying the motors LOL. Can I get some advice?

By jaysonjehsen
Posts LikeBB
#12892
TJSplash wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 8:04 pm
So far I've toasted the last of my m365 controllers, but moved on to the 1000w controllers. I switched back to a one motor build with hand brake because of the lack of electronic regain hookups. I'm haven't ordered the 1000w motors yet, so in the meantime I've been experimenting. I killed a zero motor with the 1000w controller and I also built a two wheel m365 with the other 1000w controller, but I'm starting have issues with the two wheels. I'm wondering if I cut the hall sensors off of one of the wheels if it would cause it to work properly with timing. I thought that having two wheels hooked up to the thousand watt controller would increase the odds of it actually working versus destroying the motors LOL. Can I get some advice?
I too have toasted a m365 controller on a 1000w wheel. It turns on but when I rotate the wheel it resists rotation as if it is in anti-theft mode. Any ideas on how to salvage this potentially? I soldered and reinforced the solder traces on the back of the board, which had burnt out.


I've been thinking about how to run two wheels properly--i believe you will need a controller for each wheel (so two controllers for two wheels) because the timing of the hall sensors is unique to each wheel, unless the wheels are in the same position and don't get out of position, so the timing of the phase wires will be off more often than not. This also means you'll need two dashboards potentially or one dashboard that controls two controllers (unsure if the communication protocol between the dash and controller supports two controllers though...)

Someone with more experience may be able to correct me!
Last bumped by TJSplash on Sun Aug 11, 2019 10:53 pm.

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