Electric Scooter Forum for Scooter Enthusiasts, Scooter Chargers, and Scooter Mechanics.

Discuss the Xiaomi mijia mi M365 original and pro versions in this forum. Topics include hardware, software, hacking, riding, and everything in between.

#9049
You can also use the wire protector without flipping the fork by lowering it to line up with the holes that hold on the fork plastic. Just remove the 4 Allen screws and use those holes, they line up just fine but will be slightly lower than originally. You may also need slightly longer screws.

#9214
Ctr46 wrote:
Wed May 22, 2019 11:51 am
To run a zero motor on a stock M365 will have exposed wires because the wires run on the wrong side?

Flipping the fork was not possible without some modification/fabrication to make the wire protection come out on the correct side?

Thanks for the help and info To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
Yes, if you installed the wheel where the wiring comes out the same side as the original wiring it would spin the wrong way. You could also just make the motor run in reverse, but not sure which wires to switch.

No, thats not needed at all. Flipping the forks is easy and requires no other work besides taking it apart.

You take the stem and the stem clamp off, undo the bolt below it (this sets the steering alignment with the body, so when you reassemble don't forget to set it again so it rides straight!) + the front wheel splash guard. Then you should be able to get the steering bearing assembly apart enough to flip the fork. There's a washer above the fork (below where the stem clamp would have been) with a part that sticks out to hit the stop for the steering. With your hands raise the washer above the stop, this allows you to flip the fork. No need to remove that little sliver set screw you'll see, there's enough room to get the washer above the stop without removing it. Also, without the stop you could turn the steering 360 degrees and thats no bueno!

Now with it flipped put everything back together, the clamp also flips with it (see pic in previous post).


#10363
Mattr567 wrote:
Wed May 29, 2019 1:20 am
Well, I got the aftermarket mainboard, annnddd it doesn't allow firmware flashing To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
Buying a genuine unit now.
Sorry I didn't see this post earlier. I have a few boards and can give you one. If you are in the US, PM me and I'll send one out to you.

#10382
meister_sd wrote:
Wed May 29, 2019 12:08 pm
Mattr567 wrote:
Wed May 29, 2019 1:20 am
Well, I got the aftermarket mainboard, annnddd it doesn't allow firmware flashing To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
Buying a genuine unit now.
Sorry I didn't see this post earlier. I have a few boards and can give you one. If you are in the US, PM me and I'll send one out to you.
PM sent, tysm To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

#11340
Well, it's alive! Thanks to meister_sd for the oem mainboards! Reflashed my tune and I was back to 24.5mph cruising To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


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Here is its max power draw of 1100 watts, but notice the battery voltage of 35.88. From the video too, comparing the battery voltage and output draw its obvious the battery is the limiting factor. Will be fixing this soon!

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#13531
Thanks everyone for all the useful info in this thread. The same thing happened to me and I'm not sure what was the cause. At the time when my controller burned out I was running custom firmware with ver 1.5.5 due to upgrading to pro dashboard and BMS 116 but I was on the stock m365 battery. I also had KERS turned on initially maybe for a couple rides but then changed it to off by setting the activation to 40 kmph.

For my power constant I never went below 38000 and KERS was always set to "weak." Speed limit was unlocked and I was averaging 22mph (35kmph). My ride on a local bike does have me go under and then up about 4-5 bridges and I weigh 185lbs. The stock motor struggling to get me up the incline after going under the road/bridge is what made me upgrade to a bird zero wheel.

After i burned out my stock m365 controller, I upgraded to a M365 pro controller using firmware 1.5.5 but using BMS 115 which is for the stock m365 battery. Now I'm on firmware 1.5.5 using gonkad365 from http://xiaoscooter.site/en/custom-xiaom ... re-builder. Seems like that is what is suggested for my specific setup (stock battery with pro display).

I also went back to my stock m365 motor until I can figure out what is safest setting to prevent burning out another controller with a bird zero motor. Could it have been due to the motor regenerating too much power going downhill while battery is fully charged even though I have KERS set to 40km and regen "weak?" Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Mattr567 wrote:
Sun May 19, 2019 1:54 pm
Hey guys, first post here but have been lurking for a while.

As the title says, I have been using a Bird Zero wheel successfully for over a month when suddenly this happened. I think it was because it overcharged a bit. M365tools said it was at 100% but it kept charging so I let it, but custom firmware may have allowed it to go too far. I rode it right after and that combined with the ride overheated the mainboard and did what you see here:

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It suddenly died while riding and now applies the brake with the throttle. Another user had this same exact experience with a zero wheel but that happened immediately.

The actual components of the board look completely fine so I will attempt to fix it with a jumper wire, which may also strengthen the connection better than factory. If I am unable to repair it, does someone have a spare? I don't trust the knockoff boards on ebay using a Zero wheel. Thanks.

#13550
overdoser wrote:
Thu Aug 01, 2019 12:51 pm
Thanks everyone for all the useful info in this thread. The same thing happened to me and I'm not sure what was the cause. At the time when my controller burned out I was running custom firmware with ver 1.5.5 due to upgrading to pro dashboard and BMS 116 but I was on the stock m365 battery. I also had KERS turned on initially maybe for a couple rides but then changed it to off by setting the activation to 40 kmph.

For my power constant I never went below 38000 and KERS was always set to "weak." Speed limit was unlocked and I was averaging 22mph (35kmph). My ride on a local bike does have me go under and then up about 4-5 bridges and I weigh 185lbs. The stock motor struggling to get me up the incline after going under the road/bridge is what made me upgrade to a bird zero wheel.

After i burned out my stock m365 controller, I upgraded to a M365 pro controller using firmware 1.5.5 but using BMS 115 which is for the stock m365 battery. Now I'm on firmware 1.5.5 using gonkad365 from http://xiaoscooter.site/en/custom-xiaom ... re-builder. Seems like that is what is suggested for my specific setup (stock battery with pro display).

I also went back to my stock m365 motor until I can figure out what is safest setting to prevent burning out another controller with a bird zero motor. Could it have been due to the motor regenerating too much power going downhill while battery is fully charged even though I have KERS set to 40km and regen "weak?" Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I just replaced the controller as well as adding a 2nd battery and have been riding with no issues at the same settings. I did turn off kers after if that matters at all. I decided my issue was the motor wiring shorting out since I wasn't running a protector. Got that all sorted ofc.

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