Yes, the battery will definitely still work. Remember....the BMS just manages the battery. The battery has the energy inside of it already and all you need to do is complete the circuit to make that current flow. These batteries are no different from your standard AA battery except that they hold 4.2 volts instead of 1.5 like the AA and they can hold ALOT more power and let it go ALOT faster. But the principle remains the same. The BMS interferes with custom battery set ups because it was not designed to accommodate such configurations. So you just got to throw it out and ride by the seat of your pants.365GUY wrote: ↑Wed May 08, 2019 10:58 pmThanks LA, you seem to know your shit when it comes to these things we all seem to enjoy screwing around with trying to make faster and better.
I actually just got done taking a old ES battery apart to see how it was assembled and how the BMS is integrated into it. So in the picture there are two boards ( one with the 4 wires and one with the +- leads) the 4 wire board snaps into the other board and would be the first board you would find if you disassembled the battery.
Am I correct in assuming this top board with 4 wires is the actual bms ?
The battery will still work without a active BMS board in place ? Is that super sketchy to run a battery like this without a System to keep shit from melting or you think it isn’t a major issue?
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And , I wouldnt say it is "super sketchy". You do sacrifice some safety provisions and possibly shorten battery life a little bit. At the end of the day though, all that those boards really do is balance the individual battery packs while charging and monitor temperature to shut down the battery if it gets too hot. There are also two fuses on the boards in case of a short. You can wire in a fuse (or better...fusible link) if you desire. I personally made a fusible link out of 18 ga. wire. All that you do to make a fusible link is use a short length if very skinny wire that is just barely thick enough to flow the needed amount of current. If current spikes up from a short, that very skinny section of wire will burn first, opening the circuit and isolating the short. If you are using healthy batteries (which they should be, they are very high quality batteries) then you should have trouble free operation for a long time to come. Just make sure to use a high quality charger when charging the battery, as this will prevent any overheating or overcharging all on its own.
So, now that youve got it apart, I personally shit can both boards. You will see these two strips that run along the sides of the the battery pack. One is positive, the other negative. I grind away a lttle bit of the hard plastic cover at the tip of these strips and solder my wires onto the end of the strips. You can start off your positive connection with a 1" length of 18ga wire to create your fusible link. Keep in mind (since youre likely running the batteries in the original metal tube
(neck)that you need to insulate it carefully with kapton tape. Try to solder the connections really flat so they dont protrude out past the threshold of the black plastic case. And I like to use kapton tape because it is thinner than electrical tape so it doesnt interfere when you slide the battery back into the metal neck. Does this make sense? Its a little tough to explain. I just try to make sure that the terminals I soldered do not short out against the metal neck once its installed. So take care when doing this. If you have any other questions just hit me back. Ill do my best to answer them.
Yes all of this custom wiring and custom battery stuff is a little bit dangerous. Just do the best job you can. And if you fuck up and smoke starts pouring out of your scooter while riding just bail out and watch the fireworks show. You didnt pay much for the scooter anyways, and you can get another. But if you are smart about your build, you wont have any issues. Ive been riding my scooter for 6 months without issue and Ive got 2es batteries in parallel , 1 wheels bike battery (54V) and 30 other 18650 batteries I wired up myself to provide the overvoltage and power for lights and accessories. This shit is alot like building a race car or hot rod. OF COURSE its more dangerous than a regular car, but if you wanna go fast and increase performance without engineering a whole new scooter, well just throw on your boots, saddle up, and hold on cowboy. Cuz youre in the wild west now. There is no rules. And you build at your own risk. But its a fucking blast and there aint nothin to it but to do it! Good luck. HMU if you need any other help/