Electric Scooter Forum for Scooter Enthusiasts, Scooter Chargers, and Scooter Mechanics.

Discuss the Xiaomi mijia mi M365 original and pro versions in this forum. Topics include hardware, software, hacking, riding, and everything in between.
#7063
I currently have an M365 scooter with a stock wheel up front and a zero wheel custom installed in the back. The configuration is awesome, it chirps when you hit the throttle and you can pop wheelies no problem:) The scooter accelerates super fast and has torque to go uphill without slowing down at all but the damn thing still only gets up to around 20 mph and the power kind of fades in and out. I am currently running 2 controllers both flashed with the cfw 1000w firmware. So, i have 2 questions...first does anyone know how to increase the top speed? I know there is provisions for that in the custom firmware generator but they still do not let the motors wind up to their full potential. Back emf issue? i dont think it is. Mecanical limitation of the motor? No way, its got more in it. Electronic limitation of the controller? Possible but again i think its capable. I think the issue is in the firmware but cannot be sure. Any insight is appreciated.
Also, might over volting it do the trick? I see a provision in the firmware generator and the controller has a 60v capacitor so i know it can take 52-56 volts without blowing up. Again any info is appreciated.
#7076
Dam, can you send some pictures or videos of that scooter in action? It sounds almost as fast as the dude with TWO bird zero motors on his m365

I would message him because I think he overvolted his to 2k watts with 3 batteries (1 bird zero and 2x es4)

Look for his post in the "show us your pictures of your scooters" thread
TJSplash liked this
#7135
Hello,

I think the speed limiting is in the motor controller itself. There seems to be a limit that translates to 30kph, and even with the wheel spinning in the air it won't exceed this speed. I think you could use an aftermarket controller which would allow more speed.

Mr C recently said he hit 23 mph using a Zero motor on a 365 with a aftermarket controller. Get a controller that's bigger than you need. You don't want that to be the weak link in the system. The BMS will limit output to keep the battery above 36v typically. You can solder wires to the main battery as you would for an additional battery, and feed that directly to the motor controller. Then it's battery voltage be damned, full steam ahead. May cut battery life but spares are cheap.

If you like the Zero model, you can install an aftermarket controller externally (because there isn't room internally) and then install a simple toggle or power switch on the stem to turn power on and off. Mr C also opened up the Zero battery pack, to connect power wires before the BMS circuitry, to feed the aftermarket controller. He used a 1000 watt motor controller, and with the BMS bypassed, said the Zero does an honest 25 mph and goes like a scalded dog.

The Zero has a very nice large battery, and the system seems happy with this setup. Can't use data logging, so no hard numbers on wattage, but the butt-o-meter says its quicker than a M365 running at 800 watts.

Unfortunately the supply of Zero's seems to have dried up. I very rarely see a Zero any more. I've seen people (scrappers?) walking past Ninebots and Xiaomi's and only grabbing Zero's so there must be more value in them.
#7138
I haven’t tried overvolting but I would expect it to increase the speed . The other major limiting factor is the hub size. If the diameter was larger, it could go faster. You could also try 10” tires, but it requires a small spacer/riser for the kickstand and rear fender. Modifying the firmware can push more power to it but these types of motors are most efficient when run at low power, so increasing power doesn’t result in much additional speed. There seems to be a point where it just drains the battery faster. Back EMF could be another issue, which I think would be worse at a higher voltage, but still faster.

That being said some M365’s go significantly faster than others (running same modified firmware). So there maybe other factors at play, like black crud build up on the motor wire connectors or something.

Keep in mind that even if you make it go as fast as a car, you will never be able to stop as fast as a car. Seeing someone go 20+mph on a scooter in the rear view tends to make drivers hit their brakes. Be safe!
#7224
I made a test bench to run the motor on. And while I dont have any instrumentation to measure power output (or even speed) you can clearly hear the motor is spinning faster after i switch to the 48v battery. So thats encouraging. I figure I can ramp it up to about 60 volts without letting the smoke out since the capacitor on the board is rated at 63 volts. I still need to put together a 60 volt battery and test it under load but I believe the result will be up to a 40% increase in top speed. Maybe to 25+ mph. Well, probably somewhat less due to inefficiencies in the motor....but it will be substantial either way . I get this hypothesis because as a general rule, voltage and rotational speed of a motor run somewhat parallel to each other. So going from 42v to 60v battery is a voltage increase of about 40% so we will see what the actual top speed will be. Ill record the data and post it for those of you who are curious. The coolest thing i learned from this experiment was that i can switch batteries while the scooter is running and the cap seems to keep the controller alive long enough that the scooter does not turn off. So that means if i run dual batteries (or 4 batteries for my dual motor setup), one stock at 42v (36v battery fully charged, that is) and one at 60v and I isolate the 60v battery with a 5 pin automotive relay I can effectively add a switch to the handlebars and switch batteries on demand. This would create a kind of "turbo boost" for the scooter when desired. Since it would not have to run at 60v all the time the motors and controller could stay cooler, motor and controller life will be extended and i will stay (somewhat) safer.
heres how i would wire the relays in.( see below.)need to use decent gauge wire for the high amp side of the relay (terminals 87, 87a, and 30)and need to find a place to put 2 relays (and 3 more batteries...fuck) heres a picture of that too.
i guess 2 es batteries in their metal tubes on either side of the deck....maybe stuff a zero batt in where the stock one goes and see if i can get any more batteries in between it and the underside of the deck. I could add a battery pack to the neck...but i hate top heavy scooters. I guess ill have to figure something out. anyways fellas theres some shit for yall to chew on. im going to bed. im trying to get to 30 mph without spending any money. on the way, but the last few mph are going to be hard, any other ideas are welcomed. goodnight
To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
joeyfreshwater, 0E800 liked this
#7380
I’m working on that same exact setup with the zero motor in the back. I’m considering changing the chassis to a ES so I have more room for batteries in the down tube for the front motor. Then I was thinking I could extend the front fork and do a extended rear end and give the scooter about a 2-3” lift and run maybe 10-12” tires on it.
With it lifted I could build a battery compartment under the deck and stuff controllers inside the ES deck if there is room.
So essentially 2 batteries per motor running around 50 volts each.

I will post pics once it’s a reality To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
Covert a wheels bike?

I have the back tracker off and got off the body w[…]

@LAskooter213 Re: Looking cool on a scooter: {[…]

Hello everybody, I got myself the model snsc1.0 a[…]

Does anyone know if the hacks for the Electisan ES[…]