An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Discuss the Segway Ninebot ES and Ninebot Max Kick Scooter in this Forum. Topics include the Segway-Ninebot app, hardware, street riding, etc.
#52553
Yoli2 wrote:
Tue Nov 10, 2020 2:23 am
Pedrodebdx wrote:
Wed Sep 30, 2020 4:17 am
Does the tutorial still work on rental models that received the July 2020 update?
What is this "july 2020 update" you're referring to? Do you have a link to another forum or website that discusses this?
I'm guessing it refers to the fact that Lyft Scooters seem to be significantly different now, Feb 2021 than they were a year ago when this was published. First thing, the battery pack is less accessible. Rather than undoing a few screws, you now need to:
1. Remove two pentagonal socketed screws - A dremel and flathead is your best bet.
2. Pop the lid with a special key - Some examples are here:
viewtopic.php?f=54&hilit=new%20lyft&p=3 ... 59eb1f408e As mentioned at the bottom, an allen key can fit and throw the latch and a visegrip will provide enough torque.
3. The battery itself no longer has easily accessible BME and ESC. Have seen people reference flashing those, not sure how they set the communication up safely. Hesitant to try lest I blow and STLink hooking to a line with voltage.


#52604
Has anyone followed this tutorial with success recently? Asking cause I've had two BMS boards simply return 'Could not communicate' errors when the ST-Link dongle is connected.

I'm sure the answer is "Be more careful next time", and the first time I did lift a trace, but the second time I'm certain I was careful not to torque the wires, good solder joints, double-and-triple checked that the pads had the correct ST-link connections.

Anyway, the scooters seem to have had some changes made in the year since OP's post. Maybe a hardware or software change has happened?

#52672
I have two converted lyft scooters, one with a clone dash and ble555 the other oem with ble113, I can't get the power buttons to work on either of them, and I'm sorry if this has been covered but I'm jumping the dash by hooking up a battery to the positive and negative leads on the dashes or plugging them in, how can I get the buttons to work?

#52673
AbbaZabba wrote:
Sat Feb 20, 2021 8:16 pm
Has anyone followed this tutorial with success recently? Asking cause I've had two BMS boards simply return 'Could not communicate' errors when the ST-Link dongle is connected.

I'm sure the answer is "Be more careful next time", and the first time I did lift a trace, but the second time I'm certain I was careful not to torque the wires, good solder joints, double-and-triple checked that the pads had the correct ST-link connections.

Anyway, the scooters seem to have had some changes made in the year since OP's post. Maybe a hardware or software change has happened?
Make sure the battery has no power or unplug the longest cord on the bms, the one with twelve or so wires. The led will stop blinking and you will be able to pull program memory, as well as flash it, i couldn't pull data memory until after the flash. I was stuck at this same step for days, even destroyed one of my bms' just from trying to resolder the programming points over and over again.
AbbaZabba liked this

#52694
If I could kiss you through the internet... It worked! And yea, I burned up a board soldering and resoldering perviously.

I suppose U.S. had his connector disconnected in the photos. Shame he didn't call it out. I wonder if he even understood that was necessary. If he just pulled it for ease of access, it would have just worked and he never would have known that was a necessary step.

Anyway, for anyone following after: I also had a hard time reading the data and program memory, HOWEVER. I was able to do it. It just worked sometimes and didn't at other times. I found no rhyme or reason, perhaps someone smarter can explain why. All I can tell you is, if you're at the BMS step, you think you've done everything properly, you probably have. Try to read a few times. I was never able to 'read all' but by telling it to 'read tab', after a few tries on each of data and program tabs, I loaded both and saved them. Programming took the most re-tries. Not sure why, luck of the draw? Anyway, several 'can't communicate error's later, it downloaded. Hung at 99% and I had a brief heart attack wondering if it was going to crash so close but it wrote! Thanks everyone.
Waffers wrote:
Tue Feb 23, 2021 10:01 pm
AbbaZabba wrote:
Sat Feb 20, 2021 8:16 pm
Has anyone followed this tutorial with success recently? Asking cause I've had two BMS boards simply return 'Could not communicate' errors when the ST-Link dongle is connected.

I'm sure the answer is "Be more careful next time", and the first time I did lift a trace, but the second time I'm certain I was careful not to torque the wires, good solder joints, double-and-triple checked that the pads had the correct ST-link connections.

Anyway, the scooters seem to have had some changes made in the year since OP's post. Maybe a hardware or software change has happened?
Make sure the battery has no power or unplug the longest cord on the bms, the one with twelve or so wires. The led will stop blinking and you will be able to pull program memory, as well as flash it, i couldn't pull data memory until after the flash. I was stuck at this same step for days, even destroyed one of my bms' just from trying to resolder the programming points over and over again.

#52699
Ok, so. Final dumb question (I hope).

I've:
1. Flashed the Dash - one possible issue, flashed BLE110 based on later comments saying that was the better choice.
2. Flashed the ESC
3. Flashed the BMS - disconnected the multipin header, then after flashing reconnected the multipin and held the reset button to get the blue LED blinking.
4. Rewired the dash-to-ESC connector as described - Red Black Gap Green Yellow Gap Gap. (Green wire on the dash is blue on the connector, so the color scheme is actually Red Black Gap Blue Yellow Gap Gap. This is the same as a previous post).

5. Then I put it all together and... nothing. Dash doesn't light up, which I imagine would be the case. I noticed that the ESC and BMS, when connected to the original dash, would start up the dash, and red/green leds would light up on the ESC. Checking voltages on the ESC-to-Dash connector, I accidentally crossed pin 2 and 3 (black and gap) got a spark, and the leds lit up. Checking the BMS, the blue LED was flashing more rapidly than before. Took it apart, put it back together, seems ok. Dash is fine, I checked by re-flashing it.

So I didn't fry my dash, and have a flashed dash, flashed ESC, flashed BMS, all hooked up properly. Anything I might have done wrong here? This was a multi-week project, whenever I found the time. Has a cap or something discharged? I waited some time, but always possible I'm doing something dumb. Anyway, love kisses and a donation to anyone who drags this carcass over the finish line.

And, just to contribute something instead of constantly asking for help:

The pin on the far side from the +5V pin is also ground. If you have an STLink module with the usual wire connectors that come with it, two of them just slide right over the prongs. Then you only need to solder to two pads, instead of three.

#52700
AbbaZabba wrote:
Thu Mar 04, 2021 12:36 am
Ok, so. Final dumb question (I hope).

I've:
1. Flashed the Dash - one possible issue, flashed BLE110 based on later comments saying that was the better choice.
2. Flashed the ESC
3. Flashed the BMS - disconnected the multipin header, then after flashing reconnected the multipin and held the reset button to get the blue LED blinking.
4. Rewired the dash-to-ESC connector as described - Red Black Gap Green Yellow Gap Gap. (Green wire on the dash is blue on the connector, so the color scheme is actually Red Black Gap Blue Yellow Gap Gap. This is the same as a previous post).

5. Then I put it all together and... nothing. Dash doesn't light up, which I imagine would be the case. I noticed that the ESC and BMS, when connected to the original dash, would start up the dash, and red/green leds would light up on the ESC. Checking voltages on the ESC-to-Dash connector, I accidentally crossed pin 2 and 3 (black and gap) got a spark, and the leds lit up. Checking the BMS, the blue LED was flashing more rapidly than before. Took it apart, put it back together, seems ok. Dash is fine, I checked by re-flashing it.

So I didn't fry my dash, and have a flashed dash, flashed ESC, flashed BMS, all hooked up properly. Anything I might have done wrong here? This was a multi-week project, whenever I found the time. Has a cap or something discharged? I waited some time, but always possible I'm doing something dumb. Anyway, love kisses and a donation to anyone who drags this carcass over the finish line.

And, just to contribute something instead of constantly asking for help:

The pin on the far side from the +5V pin is also ground. If you have an STLink module with the usual wire connectors that come with it, two of them just slide right over the prongs. Then you only need to solder to two pads, instead of three.
I am in the same spot i also tried to connect to iap with iot cable and i see drv as firmware in blue before was red (rental firmware) and bms is still red and now has nothing for the ble i assume this is because i used ble555 so it now wont read with iap i belive i read so i dont think that one is our issue on tbe esc were you able to find the address mentioned here https://www.scooterhacking.org/forum/vi ... .php?t=213
I was not able to locate it and so just used tbe esc126 fulldump. Im also not sure if the SN has to be changed some were also read something like that but cant find exact instructions for that nor is it mentioned in any of the tutorials but know somewhere it was touched on also not sure why their is so many different files for the the drv,bms, and ble do they need to be some how compatible using bms134fulldump.hex ble555full and esc126_fulldump which i guess is the same as drv126 as it shows up on ninebot iap as such in blue as mentioned.
If i figure it out i will definitely post and hopefully you can do the same.

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#52729
@Chrism305

So, the special sauce for my situation was to *plug in the charging cable after completing all the steps*. That seemed to reset the scooter and turn on the dash. Nothing else was wrong.

As for the BMS - if your firmware is red you didn't flash it. Mine is blue, and version 134. I was getting a few seconds of ride time then I'd get a Error 21 and it would shut itself off. I checked on IAP and sure as shit, my firmware was still somehow a red, rental version. No clue why, certain I successfully flashed it the first time. I tried reflashing as I describe below and next time I hooked everything up, it was correctly 134.

You don't need to screw everything back together to check you did it right. Just connect all the components, plug the charging cable in and let it reset. If it's not all blue on IAP, break it down and retry.

US did a great job with his tutorial, but I'm going to try to collect here as many things as I found missing in the end.

1. Getting the 'cancerous blob of plastic off'. There's lots of occluded screws, with complicated sockets. Trying to unscrew the blob is tricky, time consuming, and nothing connected is necessary in the end. The head post of the scooter ultimately has 4 screws that hold everything to it. They're the same 4 screws that hold your faceplate down. Take a drill, just go straight through the blob down to the screws (careful not to strip the socket with your drill, unscrew the hex screws and the whole blob comes off - You might want to rip loose the 5-pin julet cable that attaches to the board however. It makes checking the pinouts when you swap the connectors easier.

2. Flashing the BMS - YOU MUST FIRST REMOVE THE LARGE MULTIPIN CONNNECTOR. It then needs to remain unconnected for some time. Probably to allow a cap to run down. For max efficiency I'd say do full diassembly FIRST, THEN start flashing components, starting with the ESC, then BMS, then Dash. Save the dash for last it's the only thing you spent money on. After the BMS has discharged it will flash fine. If you're having trouble loading the full program and memory data, just upload each tab one by one. I had better success that way.

3. MAKE SURE YOU PRESS THE RESET BUTTON ON THE BMS AFTER FLASHING. You can push it through the grey potting, if you're willing to feel around, or just cut it out, the button is under the potting on the same side as the flashing through holes. This will make the blue LED flash. Obviously, also need to reconnect the multipin connector first.

4. CONNECT THE SCOOTER TO MAINS POWER VIA THE 120V CHARGER AFTER REASSEMBLY. This resets the scooter and lets you into its brain to make your modifications as in the last step in the original post. And again, I can confirm that BLE555 is not necessaery, I used the Bluetooth Low Energy firmware 110 and once I plugged the scooter in it ran fine. The necessary cord is pretty standard with most electronics, if you have a laptop, very likely the plug from the wall to your AC/DC wart will serve.

#52917
To anyone having a hard time because of the new type of BMS board, here's a little hint:
1, scrape off the weird grey glue carefully from the board
2, disconnect the two control wire groups marked on my picture with (1) and (2)
3, disconnect the B+ 14AWG lead - not sure if this is necessary, but I'd rather not risk my PC's motherboard being fried
4, check the P+ and P- (output cables) with a multimeter to see if there's any voltage left.

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If there's no creeping voltage left, go ahead and solder the st-link wires to the BMS like this:

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From here on, connect the st-link to the computer and follow Santa's steps for this message:

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If the programming is successful, follow these steps:
1, disconnect st-link from your computer and desolder the wires
2, solder back the B+ lead of the BMS to the battery positive pole
3, connect the two balancing wire groups to the BMS
4, press the reset button on the BMS for 5-6 seconds, it will flash blue again
5, put the whole setup back into its casing

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What's wrong with my m365 scooter

i replaced the controller

What's wrong with my m365 scooter

i replaced the controller

So I take it this doesn't work on a Hopr SNSC.2.2 […]

Wheels 2.0 "Atlas" Unveiled

Or replace the Bluetooth speaker pcb to enable?