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Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.
#19117
So starting with the byte 5 at 01, i've tested it myself (and you can easily test it with my code), it will unlock the scooter but the wheel won't spin (At a value less than 5 for speed limit, it is a to small value to allow the wheel to spin)
Most of the working code to make scooter run where 0x14 (for 20kph speed limit(it is pretty fun because in decimal, 0x14 give us 20, is there somthing to do with it ? I need to see if at 0x15(21) the speed limit is 21Kph (and if it is the case, the maximal speed limit is 255kph?!?))) or where E4 for 36-37kph (But this value is already spining the wheel at the maximum speed that it can achive with 36v provided to it so putting a greater value than that is probaby not that useful)

Second point. Actualy, there is any initialisation sequence. There is just a "Keep alive " sequence that will alow the scooter to run. All of the diferent options are passed into this keep alive.
The point of the first sequence that where used in other versions of the code is just here to lock the scooter at the begining (and i don't know why, it works flawlessly whitout sending it a locking sequence before the unlocking sequence)
For the first two digits, some sequences used to have them, some other not (for exemple, basti's where not using them). I still need to figure it out what the purpose of 3 bits of the 4th byte

Third and last point, i only tested this code one ES200G, i had 2 people that had also tested it on ES200G. So if someone had a ES100, i be glad to know if it works on them too.

Hope i made this clearer for you To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
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DFTC wrote:
Thu Jan 16, 2020 4:35 am
The work of Pata27 is very interesting.
Some questions/remarks :

- Why do most of the previously tested sequences have byte 5 to 01 when this is theoretically the speed limit?

- This sequence allows the initialization of the scooter, or to change the options, but what about the "Keep alive" ?
Unless I am mistaken, all this does not prevent the scooter from shutting down after one or two minutes.
FYI : only UgloBuglo's "Stay Alive" sequence seems to use the first two digits of the 4th byte. Indeed the F5 code is converted to binary in 111101

- Have the 4th byte options been tested and validated on ES-100 and ES-200? It is likely that the option differs between the two systems. (I have tried to analyse the previously tested sequences, like those of Basti and they do not always match with the byte 4 options.)

#19118
Thank you very much for these explanations.
I'm going to make myself a test platform with a small LCD screen and an IR receiver.
This will allow me to change bit by bit the options and therefore to launch the sequence of my choice, simply with an IR remote control.

As for me, I only have access to ES-100s in my city To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.



#19121
If you stop sending it, the scooter will lock itself a little bit more than 20seconds after. I used 500ms all the previous codes that I've seen where done like this, maybe it will still work sending it less often, but I mean, it will not make a big difference in anything sending it every second or every half a second...
UgloBuglo wrote:
Thu Jan 16, 2020 5:57 am
DFTC wrote:
Thu Jan 16, 2020 5:18 am
Last question: what about the loop every 500ms?
Is it necessary?
You should send the code you test every 500ms.
Seems like the unlock code I used isn't needed To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

#19123
Thanks UgloBuglo!

I will skip draculautos picture then since I don't have the Seagull.

Black, blue and green and using the USB port on Arduino then. Later on the red wire will will connect to the Arduino (passing the buck converter first).

What about the lights and speaker wires?
UgloBuglo wrote:
Thu Jan 16, 2020 3:08 am
funbag wrote:
Wed Jan 15, 2020 7:51 pm
Sorry guys, but just want to clear this once and for all.

I'm about to do the wiring now, connecting an Arduino (later on an ESP32 perhaps) but this is where I'm lost.

First out, I'm missing instructions on how to connect the speaker cables. Any idea?

There's another connector going into the tube with four cables; red, orange, green and brown. Are those the ones draculauto mentions? One of them is light grey (or green?), where do I plug this one in? draculauto only mentions one green, and I assume it's the one from the other set of cables? There are two reds in total, one in each set of cables but draculauto only shows one red. Well, you get my point.

I don't see any pink wires, whereas draculauto mentions a pair of them.

Last but not least, I want to connect an on/off button to power on/power off the scooter. What wires should go to the + and - on the switch? Red to + and black to - ?

Would really appreciate some help with this!
Don't follow that picture - that shows how wires of the Seagull box is connected internally.
Unless you use the Seagull dump you shouldn't use that.

If you use the simpler unlock codes from last couple of days just connect black to GND, blue to 3.3V and green to TX.
Power your Nano from the USB port while testing.

#19125
Your main.cpp on Github is for the ESP32 using RemoteXY. The LED_BUILTIN is in the Arduino Nano code linked in the first post of this thread, i.e. for the Arduino Nano. You've said the you won't maintain the Nano anymore but I think there are still people wanting to use it, hence the question how to compile the latest hex codes using your "deprecated" code where LED_BUILTIN generates a compilation error for the Nano.

Anyhow, thanks all for your great work! It's really interesting to follow this thread. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

MrSpriggs1 wrote:
Wed Jan 15, 2020 5:23 pm
@antonio
The .ino your are using is not the file I have made available on Github. There is no LEB_BUILTIN at all in my firmware. Why don't you create. a new project and cut and paste my main.cpp into it.

#19129
funbag wrote:
Thu Jan 16, 2020 6:48 am
Thanks UgloBuglo!

I will skip draculautos picture then since I don't have the Seagull.

Black, blue and green and using the USB port on Arduino then. Later on the red wire will will connect to the Arduino (passing the buck converter first).

What about the lights and speaker wires?
UgloBuglo wrote:
Thu Jan 16, 2020 3:08 am
funbag wrote:
Wed Jan 15, 2020 7:51 pm
Sorry guys, but just want to clear this once and for all.

I'm about to do the wiring now, connecting an Arduino (later on an ESP32 perhaps) but this is where I'm lost.

First out, I'm missing instructions on how to connect the speaker cables. Any idea?

There's another connector going into the tube with four cables; red, orange, green and brown. Are those the ones draculauto mentions? One of them is light grey (or green?), where do I plug this one in? draculauto only mentions one green, and I assume it's the one from the other set of cables? There are two reds in total, one in each set of cables but draculauto only shows one red. Well, you get my point.

I don't see any pink wires, whereas draculauto mentions a pair of them.

Last but not least, I want to connect an on/off button to power on/power off the scooter. What wires should go to the + and - on the switch? Red to + and black to - ?

Would really appreciate some help with this!
Don't follow that picture - that shows how wires of the Seagull box is connected internally.
Unless you use the Seagull dump you shouldn't use that.

If you use the simpler unlock codes from last couple of days just connect black to GND, blue to 3.3V and green to TX.
Power your Nano from the USB port while testing.
If you mean the front light of the scooter, that's connected to the dashboard as before - no changes there.
If you want to use the speaker for something you'll have to code that yourself. It's only used in the Seagull so far afaik.

#19130
MrSpriggs1 wrote:
Sun Jan 12, 2020 7:21 am
@Biingobom Biingobom
I have ripped these scooters to the bone and there are no replaceable fuses. Pull the plug on the battery, use a meter and see if there is voltage there. Maybe the battery protected itself. If and only if there is no voltage from the battery the way to reset it is to ground the hot line. If there is voltage on the hot line "DONT GROUND IT!" Battery go zap. If I wasn't clear. Unplugging the battery might bring it back from the dead.
Next up. The battery is 42V well over the input voltage for most buck converters. If you review the submissions from @Rick Sanchez on this forum. He gave instruction on how to use a zener diode to bring the voltage down to a usable level.
First of all: I tried again to unlock the "dead" scooters and now it worked. I did nothing...just tried it after about 48 hours again. Maybe the BMS needs some time after beeing shocked.... To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


i also want to power my arduino with the internal battery of the scooter. Before i do the same mistake like before i would like to follow your hint to the post from @Rick Sanchez and try to make it happen with a Z-Diode. @Rick Sanchez: Could you please check my picture if this is the correct way and the right Z-Diode for this? There is also a Z-Diode with up to 3W instead to 1.3W....do you think this would be a better choice?


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#19131
You have the polarity of the zener wrong, that way it will only drop ~0.7V

You should have the band on the zener towards your (+)
Biingobom wrote:
Thu Jan 16, 2020 9:30 am
MrSpriggs1 wrote:
Sun Jan 12, 2020 7:21 am
@Biingobom Biingobom
I have ripped these scooters to the bone and there are no replaceable fuses. Pull the plug on the battery, use a meter and see if there is voltage there. Maybe the battery protected itself. If and only if there is no voltage from the battery the way to reset it is to ground the hot line. If there is voltage on the hot line "DONT GROUND IT!" Battery go zap. If I wasn't clear. Unplugging the battery might bring it back from the dead.
Next up. The battery is 42V well over the input voltage for most buck converters. If you review the submissions from @Rick Sanchez on this forum. He gave instruction on how to use a zener diode to bring the voltage down to a usable level.
First of all: I tried again to unlock the "dead" scooters and now it worked. I did nothing...just tried it after about 48 hours again. Maybe the BMS needs some time after beeing shocked.... To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


i also want to power my arduino with the internal battery of the scooter. Before i do the same mistake like before i would like to follow your hint to the post from @Rick Sanchez and try to make it happen with a Z-Diode. @Rick Sanchez: Could you please check my picture if this is the correct way and the right Z-Diode for this? There is also a Z-Diode with up to 3W instead to 1.3W....do you think this would be a better choice?


To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

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