[michi_gecko]

Finally I have done the first step of installing a 140mm brake disc on the M365Pro.
In my opinion the 140mm Rotor together with the BBS7 Brake caliper is a huge upgrade.

The better brake caliper alone is not perfect, because the position is not optimal on the disc.

Pro:
pure breaking power
adjusting the brake pads without tools

Let me know, what you think about it.

next steps:

Replacing the screws and the washers with a CNC made adapter block. Probably it would make sense to lower the front part of the brake. Any suggestions?

Splitting mechanical and electrical braking - I just ordered a second brake lever
Does anybody know, if the "gas" lever is compatible for the braking signal also?

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[michi_gecko]

Update:

Added a second brake Lever: Avid Speed Dial 7

Advantage:
+ A real brake Lever. Much better quality and grip.
+ On the lever it is possible to adjust the cable tension (?), the Position of the Lever and the leverage when pulling the lever. So it can be adjusted, how strong and fast the brake power is triggered.
+ It can be operated with one finger. The movement on the lever for maximum Pull is a lot less, than on the original one.
+ The original brake lever is just for electric brake now, so I can get the maximum out of KERS.

Cons / ToDo:
- New CFW without KERS, done.
- The stock lever does not generate maximum breaking power, when I have my Hand on the Handle. I cannot pull it far enough. So trying to adjust the brake lever parameter with CFW.
- I want to position both levers inside of the Bell / Accelerator. So I would have to open the dashboard and disconnect the wires.
- For transportation I used my doughters hair band to pull the brake Lever to the Handle. So the scooter would not roll around while riding the train. Need to come up with some other solution now, because that doesnt seem to work any more.

Open questions:
o How can I seal the dashboard after opening?
o Is it possible to use a accelerator for the electrical brake? Does anybody know the electrical details on both?

More Info regarding the 140mm disc

As you can see on the brake pads, the 120mm doesnt use the whole area of the brake pads.

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[danc]

Having dealt with cable operated Discs on Early low spec Mtn Bikes I would respectfully suggest Not wasting Coin on those bits. They were proven sketchy years ago
Their single piston action results in inadequate pad pressures.. often bending the discs in use just to add insult..

Fit a Full hyd setup Handbrake lever master cyl/ wee hyd lines and a simple Hyd caliper.
Much smaller /easier to mount at the wheel and Easily twice as capable Yes a few $ more .. But??
Also a New Mtn Bike Hyd lever assly won't have that risky Regen hookup Two birds fixed with one solution. Good luck.

[michi_gecko]

Hi Danc,

Yes, I have thought about upgrading to hydraulic braking.
But for me the downsides did not justify that.
- special tools needed for filling oil and performing service
- I cannot do it by myself
- repair: with cable it will work somehow, even if something is loose. I can fix it anytime, also on the road
- installation: I would have to replaced only the wire, but the Bowden cable also. Which is something I did not want to do because of keeping everything sealed against water inside of the scooter
- cost: it is more expensive. Just for trying out if it would work out with 140 mm disc it was not worth it.

The extra braking power is not needed. The problem here is the tire. So there would be no benefit like on the "real" bike.
There also is no heat problem or fading in my driving profile.

Only benefit would be the dual-activated caliper and the self-adjustment of the brake.
But at the moment I could not see that as an downside so far. The braking on the scooter is a lot different than on my 29' MTB

Maybe later I would upgrade this too, but not for the moment.

In the picture you can see the beta version of the final adapter. It would enable mounting any brake caliper.
Final adjustments could be made for the positioning of the holes and so on. But it works for now.
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