[Cyberfil]

Hi guys,

So i got my hands on a bird 3 and i want to convert it for personal use.
I'm new to all this, so does anybody can help me out with this?

I saw a few videos, but does anybody has a detailed (step by step) video of how to do it?
Changing the controller is the only way possible?

Thanks

[onlyindadescooters]

[chevyfried]

The 2 bird 3s I purchased at auction, the throttle didn't work on either of them. Think an update changed them somehow...not sure, but 2 controllers, neither would work on either Bird 3 with the OEM throttle. Replaced the throttle and the grips and running great. Now after the first run, the batteries will not charge now through the Bird board, so I set out to remove the board and was able to get it off without major issues and can now add my own BMS (though fitting it in will be an issue). With a 500w Brainpower controller on speed 3, I was able to reach 20mph. Its torquey on the bottom but takes a while to get from 15 to 20 mph. Might do a slight mod to the shunt. The 2nd Bird is getting a 1000w DC Moto controller, has the S866 controller. I have to get the settings right, right now on the test bench the speedometer goes to 25, pretty sure a setting is off. Should max out right around 20 mph like the other controller. FYI I weigh about 175lbs.

[Jnsystems]

The 2 bird 3s I purchased at auction, the throttle didn't work on either of them. Think an update changed them somehow...not sure, but 2 controllers, neither would work on either Bird 3 with the OEM throttle. Replaced the throttle and the grips and running great. Now after the first run, the batteries will not charge now through the Bird board, so I set out to remove the board and was able to get it off without major issues and can now add my own BMS (though fitting it in will be an issue). With a 500w Brainpower controller on speed 3, I was able to reach 20mph. Its torquey on the bottom but takes a while to get from 15 to 20 mph. Might do a slight mod to the shunt. The 2nd Bird is getting a 1000w DC Moto controller, has the S866 controller. I have to get the settings right, right now on the test bench the speedometer goes to 25, pretty sure a setting is off. Should max out right around 20 mph like the other controller. FYI I weigh about 175lbs.

I don't believe they update anything to make it not work, I just used the stock throttle and bypassed the bms, used it for a good while (~4 months) before it was dead again. I managed to get the OEM throttle to work by connecting three wires on the breadboard, (located on top of scooter) first try on guessing. I used a 500w controller and made it fit into the scooter, and it works. I treat the entire scooter and controller as a consumable, so I don't fix it again after it broke twice. Mines can go up steep hills but, too bad the bird 3 is not a swappable battery, so less fun time even though it is durable. For the torque, it could be the hall sensors wiring, but if it works, it works. The first time I got my bird 3 running, my brain is fried. It worked anywhere I want it to. Have fun in No Ride Zones, No Park Zones, And Straight Up Out of Service Area. I'm working on the Lim Gen 4.1 for the swappable battery, more fun time, and looks cooler.

In Short, the Original Throttle works after adding three wires to the correct place(s). If you want, you can DM me for the locations of the connections. **Results varies by where the scooter is located, for example, SF is different than LA.**
If charging Fails, Use another V3 Battery or use a switch for the bypass cable. It is known Stock Bird 3 can charge through charge ports, but if that fails, then the bird battery is past critical voltage and should be replaced.

[chevyfried]

Thank you for the reply.

On both scooter, I connected the black, red and yellow to the black, red, blue on both controllers. Neither scooter worked with either of the 2 different controller I had. Yes, I know it should work...but it didnt. Oh well...

As for charging...both batteries stopped charging after their first trips out, on return voltage was no lower than 36v on either.. Again...weird coincidence? Either way, just means I get to tinker.

What did you mean a switch on the BMS for charging?

[M365GUY]

Not sure why that person is saying that the batteries should be replaced if they don’t charge through the oem BMS. That’s pretty common that the BMS shuts off charge circuit after a certain amount of time not communicating with the other parts of the scooter. You can replace the BMS with another 10s BMS very easily. Unsolder the BMS, and you have all your balance tabs right there. Just start with main negative being cell 1 and go down then over to main positive for #10.
It honestly couldn’t be any more simple to change a BMS. You should probably get something with at least 40 amp rating however if needed you can go up to 60 just don’t expect a continuous load of 60 amps to not melt the 3 small series connections between the modules. I have seen short peaks of up to 100 amps for just a few seconds. In my opinion it’s the best battery pack used by any company.

[Jnsystems]

Oops, It looks like I am getting too ahead of myself, the image below is what I am referring to.

In the top No need to replace BMS because supposedly all other functions still work after B+ to P+ Bypass
On the bottom with a different BMS, the charging and discharging wires are using the same output, so when bypassing it, it would render the BMS useless therefore it needs to be replaced or risked overcharging supposedly.
It's fun when the companies use very smart BMS to ensure there is their DRM on their fleets lol.

But for your controller and such, for the bird 3, use another controller, and grab another v3 and look for a tutorial online and follow that instruction. If it still doesn't work, I would be open to helping for now.