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#54878
reload8 wrote:
Fri Sep 03, 2021 1:36 am
Yeah, the controller is a mess.. But as I mentioned earlier, I did manage to get the wheel running by changing the controller, so the battery is definitely not 100% stopping that process. It might shut down while riding because of settings, but you should be able to get power out of it.
Did you just Connect the + and - wire From the Battery? What did you do with the other 3 wires that were coming From the Battery?

Hooked up my minimotors controller with a external battery to the Motor and it spins succesfully without the hall sensor wires.
#54884
Bluemicrophone wrote:
Wed Sep 01, 2021 12:36 pm
Mine were secured with square screws. I had to use a security bit.

Is it possible that the bms on the battery is locked? when I measure output on + / - I get 0 volt.
The original controller is impossible to "Reverse engineer" it is filled with a silicon gel and to get the board out you have to be superman.


You can charge the original battery with a Xiaomi m365 charger.
Yeah, battery is CAN Protectet... So you have to bypass the BMS by cutting P+ and P- and solder it on B+ and B- on the side of the batterypack

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#54935
TheElevator wrote:
Fri Sep 03, 2021 1:01 pm
Bluemicrophone wrote:
Wed Sep 01, 2021 12:36 pm
Mine were secured with square screws. I had to use a security bit.

Is it possible that the bms on the battery is locked? when I measure output on + / - I get 0 volt.
The original controller is impossible to "Reverse engineer" it is filled with a silicon gel and to get the board out you have to be superman.


You can charge the original battery with a Xiaomi m365 charger.
Yeah, battery is CAN Protectet... So you have to bypass the BMS by cutting P+ and P- and solder it on B+ and B- on the side of the batterypack

Image
Thank you very much! I bypassed the BMS with your guide and it works!

Minimotors controller with XT60 onto the original battery pack. Using the EY3 display on the handlebars.
By TheElevator
#54959
Bluemicrophone wrote:
Sun Sep 05, 2021 3:26 pm
TheElevator wrote:
Fri Sep 03, 2021 1:01 pm
Bluemicrophone wrote:
Wed Sep 01, 2021 12:36 pm
Mine were secured with square screws. I had to use a security bit.

Is it possible that the bms on the battery is locked? when I measure output on + / - I get 0 volt.
The original controller is impossible to "Reverse engineer" it is filled with a silicon gel and to get the board out you have to be superman.


You can charge the original battery with a Xiaomi m365 charger.
Yeah, battery is CAN Protectet... So you have to bypass the BMS by cutting P+ and P- and solder it on B+ and B- on the side of the batterypack

Image
Thank you very much! I bypassed the BMS with your guide and it works!

Minimotors controller with XT60 onto the original battery pack. Using the EY3 display on the handlebars.
No Problem :) But watch out for the voltage of the battery! If it drops below 30V you should recharge it.
I want to buy an Ninebot ES4 Dashboard and Controller because the Dashboard should fit and i am able to flash the controller for variable speed and power :)
#54977
I usually charge the battery when it gets below 36 volts max volts with charger is 41,6 volt.

I think I will design and 3D print a cover for the open hole in the steering stem.

I use the finger throttle that is on the EY3 display I removed the original throttle. The sensor on the brake cable I soldered onto the controllers regen braking input. The motor works without problem I ignored the hall sensor wires and wired it directly with the 3 phases onto the controller.

The controller I used is a 36v 30A minimotors controller as found in the speedway mini 4 pro good for 1,3KW peak.
The top speed is 27km/h sadly I want more! The acceleration is around 4-5 sek to 25km/h.

I can tell you that the motor makes a fabulous sound. The best sound I personally ever heard from a e-scooter.
By mayaku2go
#55890
I don't know why I can't reset the password of my original account but here are some very useful infos:
To remove the Battery you just have to pull the cord hidden inside the deck ;-)
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The actual lock is quite simple an has no IC or sensors:
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With 5V (or -5V) on the black and red wire of the 4-pin (blue) Julet plug should do the same :D
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Did you use the 25km/h Firmware ? Obviosly not..

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