An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.
By bn326160
#55664
bn326160 wrote:
Sun Sep 26, 2021 8:28 am
I am able to spin the wheel freely and engage to higher speeds. But when I ride the scooter, the scooter tends to turn off and stays turned off until I reconnect the battery.

Sometimes I'm able to ride it a bit in my backyard, but other times it will just shut off. Especially when I try to run it slightly uphill in my street. I've tried to lift up the scooter, engage the throttle and shake it vigorously to ensure no loose connections, but it seems that that works fine.
Update: I tinkered with the settings on the controller, I modified the undervoltage setting setting it lower, which made the scooter pull harder, but eventually cut off again. I'm recharging now but am afraid the BMS needs to be bypassed as there is probably a security in the battery cutting off power at a certain amperage without communication with the original controller.
User avatar
By donKeykick
#55683
matt_4444 wrote:
Mon Sep 20, 2021 1:11 pm
donKeykick wrote:
Wed Sep 15, 2021 5:18 pm
Hey guys...I recently, after 2 years, revisited this bird one 590 and started over using the SamZone method (thank you by the way I was actually able to use that method to get a lime s 2.5 up and fully functional). For this scotter the bird one 590 I ordered the 350 w brainpower with the s866 lcd and as you can hopefully see in the vid ...it works ....and then the motor stops with an e10 error and sometimes an e7. I have checked everything. I opened up the battery and used SamZones ABS bypass method and Im getting the same results as before...It has full power for about 5 to 10 seconds and then the motor stops. If I unplug the LCD cable and wait a few minutes it will start again but shut off in a few seconds. If I repeatedly keep disconnecting and reconnecting the LCD cable the motor wont turn at all...I have to wait a few between unplugging and replugging. Anyone else in here have this issue? I appreciate any and all help. Thank you guys.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1tfzhsg0ps
I've been struggling to get my 2.5 up and running for a while now. Your saying SamZones video was able to get it up and running for you? It's different from the Arduino/Bluetooth method, right?
Yes..thats what I'm saying. I purchased a brushless brainpower controller and s866 lcd together from amazon and wired it up just as SamZoneworld describes in his vids. I blew out the headlight tho and I cant get the taillight to work either but it could be the controller.....anyway its not a smooth ride but it certainly works.
User avatar
By donKeykick
#55684
bn326160 wrote:
Sun Sep 26, 2021 8:28 am
Hello guys, I recently converted a Bird One 590 to a personal scooter using the samzone method of replacing the controller with a 350W generic controller.

I am able to spin the wheel freely and engage to higher speeds. But when I ride the scooter, the scooter tends to turn off and stays turned off until I reconnect the battery.

Sometimes I'm able to ride it a bit in my backyard, but other times it will just shut off. Especially when I try to run it slightly uphill in my street. I've tried to lift up the scooter, engage the throttle and shake it vigorously to ensure no loose connections, but it seems that that works fine.

The battery has apart from the 2 main power wires, 4 more (signal?) wires, who are now disconnected. Do they need to remain that way?

I feel like the controller or battery goes into over-current protection.
Is this a classic symptom of requiring a BMS bypass or is my controller faulty/insufficient?

Controller specs:
Image
You have to open up that battery and do the bypass. Samzoneworld has youtube vids of how to do this. Be careful.
By GandalfGrigio
#55697
With BMS bypass now i'm able to use the scooter. Only 2 things doesn't work properly:

- the front light it's probably broken, i'm unable to power it up with 6, 12 or 36 volts. Any replacement parts ?
- the rear brake light: how can I make it blink when breaking ? keeping it steady on is not safe.
By iLogics
#55699
GandalfGrigio,

Do you have a link for the controller which is supposedly plug n play. Someone said there is one with the Bird Juliet connectors in it and there is no need for cutting splicing the motor drive cables, hallsensirs, etc.

Were you able to get your battery BMS output stage bypassed? I'm doing a Bird 590 now for the first time. I have a 350watt controller with the S866 LCD display. I gotta crack open the battery box next to bypass the output stage if the bms.

Anyways,. If you have a link for the controller that is supposedly plug n play, please email it, or reply here.

Thanks man!!

Here's a link for a replacement headlight

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Segway-Ninebot ... 632-2357-0

- Patrick
ilogics.pr@gmail.com
By GandalfGrigio
#55702
iLogics wrote:
Sun Oct 10, 2021 6:47 pm
GandalfGrigio,

Do you have a link for the controller which is supposedly plug n play. Someone said there is one with the Bird Juliet connectors in it and there is no need for cutting splicing the motor drive cables, hallsensirs, etc.
I don't have the plug&play kit, i had to cut and solder.
Were you able to get your battery BMS output stage bypassed? I'm doing a Bird 590 now for the first time. I have a 350watt controller with the S866 LCD display. I gotta crack open the battery box next to bypass the output stage if the bms.
There is a video from samzone posted in this thread. Just cut the big black cable inside the battery and solder it to the "B-" connector on the opposite side.


Here's a link for a replacement headlight

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Segway-Ninebot ... 632-2357-0

- Patrick
ilogics.pr@gmail.com
Mine is different, I have the german version, with the headlight on the tube.
User avatar
By SuperNova
#55703
iLogics wrote:
Sun Oct 10, 2021 6:47 pm
GandalfGrigio,

Do you have a link for the controller which is supposedly plug n play. Someone said there is one with the Bird Juliet connectors in it and there is no need for cutting splicing the motor drive cables, hallsensirs, etc.

Were you able to get your battery BMS output stage bypassed? I'm doing a Bird 590 now for the first time. I have a 350watt controller with the S866 LCD display. I gotta crack open the battery box next to bypass the output stage if the bms.

Anyways,. If you have a link for the controller that is supposedly plug n play, please email it, or reply here.

Thanks man!!

Here's a link for a replacement headlight

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Segway-Ninebot ... 632-2357-0

- Patrick
ilogics.pr@gmail.com
Most likely you wont need to bypass the BMS of the battery when using 350W controller. Do everything as shown by Samzone and if the scooter cuts power when driven, then bypass the BMS.
User avatar
By donKeykick
#55711
iLogics wrote:
Sun Oct 10, 2021 6:47 pm
GandalfGrigio,

Do you have a link for the controller which is supposedly plug n play. Someone said there is one with the Bird Juliet connectors in it and there is no need for cutting splicing the motor drive cables, hallsensirs, etc.

Were you able to get your battery BMS output stage bypassed? I'm doing a Bird 590 now for the first time. I have a 350watt controller with the S866 LCD display. I gotta crack open the battery box next to bypass the output stage if the bms.

Anyways,. If you have a link for the controller that is supposedly plug n play, please email it, or reply here.

Thanks man!!

Here's a link for a replacement headlight

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Segway-Ninebot ... 632-2357-0

- Patrick
ilogics.pr@gmail.com
That is absolutely not a link for anything related to a Bird One 590
By bn326160
#55727
donKeykick wrote:
Sat Oct 09, 2021 1:38 pm
...
You have to open up that battery and do the bypass. Samzoneworld has youtube vids of how to do this. Be careful.
Thank you, I was afraid so. I'll need to find a sawtable and angle gringer. Unless someone knows how to interface with the UART... :mrgreen:
Did some more experimenting with the settings and was able to make it pull harder. It does seem that the current doesn't reach the limit yet, nor does the voltage ever go down enough to be cut off by voltage protection. Goes from 40V to 0V instantly. Good thing is that the Brainpower controller seems to have a voltage & amperage protection system built in, makes me feel better about bypassing the BMS.
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