An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.

#54035
Looks good brotha
ayoub wrote:
Sat Oct 05, 2019 5:59 pm
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can you please tell use how you did the work ?
ZipperZ wrote:
Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:53 pm
If anyone is interested this is a tool I have made from cheap 18mm-19mm box spanner to remove front fork:
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And a stencil for that tool:
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And also a "finished" product:
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#54064
Zik wrote:
Wed Dec 12, 2018 7:31 am
humanbeing21 wrote:
Tue Dec 11, 2018 8:45 pm

Great picture, I've been looking for something like this. All your images appear to of the hardware Lime put on the Segway scooters to make them work with their platform. All of this will be removed when we convert the scooter back to it's original form. The connections on the lime board look identical to those on the dashboard circuit board from eBay.

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If this works similar to the Xiaomi MIJIA M365 then we'll be able to simply remove the Lime hardware, plug in the dashboard, and reset the control unit.
All the connections are similar in the dashboard, but the cable to power up the light have a different interface.

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As you can see, isn't a simple two cables connection (yellow/white) like the original ES2 dashboard instead is "round cable" connection. But have just two pins too, so can be easily modified. Sadly I don't take photos of front light unmounted, can I take it and upload later if you want.

Now about the motherboard topic. I found it just under the dashboard. The wiring you see a little bit under the front light connection belongs to motherboard.

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The yellow arrow it's the front light connection.
Blue it's the motherboard connection and the greens goes to handlebar throttle and break. Just like the Ninebot's

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But, I don't know if the motherboard will work just plugging a new dashboard. I'm already ordered one from China seller, may be in a month I could have it.

May be, the motherboard will not work without the "GPS module permission"

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Red arrows show cables going directly to the lower part. Connection to power up the motor and speed sensor? Don't really know. Blue arrows show cables going/coming from the battery, one for charging by the charging port and other in between motherboard and battery. Green arrow cable it's to the GPS module. Orange rectangle shows the position of motherboard, just in the neck of the handle

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Just under that plastic cover it's the battery. The big black cable go straight down to the body of scooter.

May be it's possible to modify the wiring of a original motherboard to make it work like a kind of ES2.

I think the battery of this Lime model it's bigger than the regular ES2 (I'll post images and information to compare)



EDIT:

Battery info and pictures:

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Length 59 CMS (23.2 inches)

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Tag (8800 mAh)

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Ninebot's ES2 original battery (5200 mAh) *Source: Google


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Up side Lime

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Ninebot's ES2 original battery down side looking for the original MB *Source: Google

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Down side

Front light connection to dashboard

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Dashboard output cable to the front light, different that the Ninebot's

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And obviously, different input cable from the front light
This is so good picture.



#54120
Johndow wrote:
Mon Aug 02, 2021 5:59 pm
Anyone figured out how to get the original lcd dashboard to function properly with any of the china controllers? Hopefully, Someone message me some decent shit. I know I haven't been up to too much but I'll be sure to update any new news once I get some
I would like to know that too, because it would be good if it would display at least the battery status or speed.

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The display works on three wires: black - GND, red + 36V, yellow ~4v

Blue signal from the throttle, white signal from the brake, green?

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The key can be made faster and easier from the old tube from the bicycle seat.

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Last edited by mwrc on Wed Sep 01, 2021 3:46 am, edited 3 times in total.

#54147
I found that inside the lift version ninebot Max has a decent, removable and reusable four bare,blue LED light gauge, with a simple push button to check how much your battery has available, and it is really compact and simple to de-wire and re-wire into any sort of 36v system. Im with you on the need for the oem dash, Being utilized for at least the sake of the battery meter but like I pointed out the lyft has a meter installed on it's battery that could be wired where ever and for wide range of other diy projects.

#54149
ZipperZ wrote:
Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:53 pm
If anyone is interested this is a tool I have made from cheap 18mm-19mm box spanner to remove front fork:
To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


And a stencil for that tool:
To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


And also a "finished" product:
To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

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How did the factory controller work?

#54389
Step by step.
1. disassembly the scooter
2. take out controller, display and acceleration. Greetin box also.
3. keep the big round connector with 3 big pins and 5 smalls pins. Cut it from original controller.
4. buy any brushless controller with 36V and minimum 300W with acceleration. Could be with some display also.
5. Make the connections from new controller with big round connector. Keep in mind that the 3 big pins are for motor 3 pins. The 5 smalls pins are for hall sensor, 3 pins are matching the colors of motors connectors and more 2 pins, black and red for powering the hall sensors. (Actually a simple 3 transistors who detect the magnets)
6. Make connections to acceleration w/ or w/o display, usually the controller have the compatible connectors for acceleration (3pins) and with display may be in total 5 or 6 pins, depends which type are.
7. Connect the battery to controller by one big connector with 2 wires, black and red.
Until now everything are ok and the scooter must work fine.
Note.
The controller have more wires, with connectors or not, but this is the minimum necessary for work. Also, the controller must have two wires with one compatible connector each, for learning. With this two wires connected together the controller learn the sense of rotation of the motor, use it to set the proper direction of rotation.
Any of remaining wires could be for break, (the motor must know when to stop), for lights (36v!!!, use DC 2 DC converter) and many wires. All of them are optionally and could be or not used.
P.S. Sorry for my English, I try to do the best. Enjoy riding! Don't steal any of scooters, they have a serial number and it's easy to create problems. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

#54410
ondraondra wrote:
Thu Jun 27, 2019 5:19 pm
Hi all,
proponent of the "clean" solution, why replace the whole ESC, when you only need to tell the current one it's OK to move.

In theory, it would go something like this:
Acquire any UART capable devboard, I went with Arduino Nano (because of integrated USB and small size)
Prep a program to sniff the unlocking command from GPS to ESC (PM for source) at baud rate 115200 8N1
Remove four TX25 screws behind green box (LBCAT-S)
Ignore the other black dangly cable, carefully strip the grey cable connected to the inner of scooter.
Strip black (GND) and yellow (GPS TX > ESC RX) cable.
Connect your sniffer, get your laptop ready.
Unlock scooter via legitimate means (rent, lime juicer, whatever)
Get your golden nuclear codes To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

Put scooter back together and return it in the app.
???
PROFIT!!!!

For your auctioned scooter, you can remove the GPS box completely, short blue wire to red one (to bring 36V power to ESC) and replay the command you acquired.

Bonus points for sourcing voltage regulator that can step down the 36V (red wire) to 5V for Arduino to use and run.

BTW if anybody has the right 5A A5 ** ** command to send to the scooter, I am more than happy to exchange knowledge.
PM me for any questions (like Arduino source code etc.)
Hi. How can I contact you? Could you please provide Arduino source code and scheme to revive Lime?

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