An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.
By freebox75
Posts
#21493
You can force the opening of the battery compartment with a crowbar and some strong flat screwdrivers. On of my acquiantance did it. Then you have to use a grinder to cut through the metal of the battery. Do it gently so that you don’t touch the cells. I advise you to take from the DOTT scooter as they have the best batteries available. 48v 16ah it’s a beast of battery
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By Bug_meh
Posts
#21523
Jayra wrote:
Thu Jun 11, 2020 3:43 pm
sunny wrote:
Tue May 12, 2020 2:51 pm
konkret wrote:
Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:49 am


I would have guessed that this odd looking bolt has something to do with the lock of the battery compartment, but I'm unable to turn it. Is it locked by the electronics?
On the scooters I've seen it doesn't seem to be possible to insert any type of tool In the gap of the battery lid.




Sorry about the quality.
Does anyone have any pics from an already opened battery compartment including pics of the lock?
I did open the battery compartment but I kind of made a cut on the Screws around it with my multifunctional tool and then rotated gently with a flathead screwdriver. The battery compartment is electronically locked. There is no way around to get to the battery.
So even if we get the lid up we can't remove the battery?
Got any internal photos?
It is quite easy to remove the Battery cover, you just have to remove these screws marked with red, optional the ones marked with yellow. Then you can push the whole thing towards the front and lift the battery cover
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This is the cover lock with an reed contact, i think for test if the cover is closed again. The big plug is for the battery.

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The battery itself:
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By Aquaman
Posts Avatar
#21533
@UgloBuglo
@Rick Sanchez
@thisisstan85
@MrSpriggs1


Haven't seen much written regarding the "magic" unlock code. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


Understand that it may be smart not to reveal this, reducing risk of patches being rushed. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


Is it possible to sniff codes your self without a $2000-$5000 logic analyzer, possible to use this for example https://arduino-shop.eu/arduino-platfor ... rface.html

I have like poster before me taken apart a hatch lock from drowned ES400...

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but revealed the "brains" as well...

Unfortunately only one of the chips had any info written on it To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
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And that one is very likely a MOSFET of some sort (only hooked up to actuator-motor, VDD, GND, and two pins hooked up to the other chip) the other one hooked up to VDD, GND, MTX, MRX, magnetic (reed) switch, one pin to "SWAT".
Will investigate further. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


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By Bug_meh
Posts
#21542
Aquaman wrote:
Mon Jun 15, 2020 7:24 pm
@UgloBuglo
@Rick Sanchez
@thisisstan85
@MrSpriggs1


Haven't seen much written regarding the "magic" unlock code. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


Understand that it may be smart not to reveal this, reducing risk of patches being rushed. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


Is it possible to sniff codes your self without a $2000-$5000 logic analyzer, possible to use this for example https://arduino-shop.eu/arduino-platfor ... rface.html

I have like poster before me taken apart a hatch lock from drowned ES400...

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


but revealed the "brains" as well...

Unfortunately only one of the chips had any info written on it To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
And that one is very likely a MOSFET of some sort (only hooked up to actuator-motor, VDD, GND, and two pins hooked up to the other chip) the other one hooked up to VDD, GND, MTX, MRX, magnetic (reed) switch, one pin to "SWAT".
Will investigate further. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

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How did you remove this white coating?

User avatar
By Aquaman
Posts Avatar
#21546
Bug_meh wrote:
Tue Jun 16, 2020 3:19 pm
Aquaman wrote:
Mon Jun 15, 2020 7:24 pm
@UgloBuglo
@Rick Sanchez
@thisisstan85
@MrSpriggs1


Haven't seen much written regarding the "magic" unlock code. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


Understand that it may be smart not to reveal this, reducing risk of patches being rushed. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


Is it possible to sniff codes your self without a $2000-$5000 logic analyzer, possible to use this for example https://arduino-shop.eu/arduino-platfor ... rface.html

I have like poster before me taken apart a hatch lock from drowned ES400...

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


but revealed the "brains" as well...

Unfortunately only one of the chips had any info written on it To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
And that one is very likely a MOSFET of some sort (only hooked up to actuator-motor, VDD, GND, and two pins hooked up to the other chip) the other one hooked up to VDD, GND, MTX, MRX, magnetic (reed) switch, one pin to "SWAT".
Will investigate further. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
How did you remove this white coating?

Sat and had nothing to do in almost half a day, and was determined. Nothing else! To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
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By screwyourscrew
Posts
#21617
Thanks for the info!
I assume that the battery (or better: the BMS) requires some kind of 'keep alive signal' in order to not cut off the current, if you want to use the battery in a different project. (Similar to the battery in the ES-200)
Anybody got some information about that?

Btw on the topic of logic analysers: You can get a decent one for fairly cheap (~10€), just search for saleae on ebay. These are clones, but they work with the original software, which can (among others) analyse CAN.

By fast kill
Posts
#22054
Hi everyone,

I was wondering if someone had infos on the motor? I have hooked up a 1000w controller and I have 2 issues:
1) The motor seems to block if i go full throttle right away,. I need to build up speed slowly until i go full throttle other wise the motos blocks itself
2) I cant get over 24kmh... Is there something to modify inside the motor to bypass that speed limit?

User avatar
By lexfire
Posts Avatar
#22070
Hi @fast kill i was wondering the same thing. I did some test yesterday, and got the same problem. First, i was thinking it was the BMS from battery, but nope. And i tried two controler 600W and i can't go faster than 25Km/h so yea, i guess there is something to do inside the motor. If someone got a solution or any advice about it. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


By the way @fast kill The problem you got about the throttle, it's because you forgot to plug the hall sensor motor ! Then you can go full throttle without weird noise.
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User avatar
By Johnny05
Posts Avatar
#22073
fast kill wrote:
Thu Jul 02, 2020 6:45 am
[...] 2) I cant get over 24kmh... Is there something to modify inside the motor to bypass that speed limit?
lexfire wrote:
Sat Jul 04, 2020 7:57 am
Hi @fast kill i was wondering the same thing. I did some test yesterday, and got the same problem. First, i was thinking it was the BMS from battery, but nope. And i tried two controler 600W and i can't go faster than 25Km/h so yea, i guess there is something to do inside the motor. If someone got a solution or any advice about it. To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
The Tier Battery is 48V and the Motor they put inside the scooter is build (or more specifically "wound") to to the top speed of 25-30km/h at that 48V from the battery.
Doing it this way will give them peak performance.
If you want the motor to spin faster or in other words make it faster, you have to apply more Voltage.

Or put it that way... at 25km/h the Motor is "making" 48V, you have 48V at your battery. Since the Voltages are equal there is no current flow possible.

There are ways to get it to spin faster with 48V, but not with your common Motor controller. The key word would be "field weakening" but it brings you more danger than good's.

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