Electric Scooter Forum for Scooter Enthusiasts, Scooter Chargers, and Scooter Mechanics.

Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.

#14612
Bleebleblatt wrote:
Fri Apr 26, 2019 9:30 pm
so heres my thought to how to do this correctly without doing any of the above listed somewhat nightmarish method....
get an st link and find the appropriate firmware for this scooter (not birds custom bs) then you will have to get the Bluetooth module for this scooter original manufacturer model which is some random company out of china then install the Bluetooth and ride away. or you can take the motor for this and rewire it to an es4 or a lime and find a way to make use of this wonderful motor which is really the thing you are after because who wants a 50 lb scooter nicknamed the tank?
anyways I was a bird mechanic before they laid us all off and I will be looking into making this work but so far the idea I have is the best and most logical way I can think of to make this work. I have several es4 which are converted and several lime ninebot models that im working on converting and I have converted the m365 into a m365 pro with updated display dashboard which hasn't been released yet. so I know this bird zero is going to be a challenge. I will update if I come up with anything
Hi,

I tried to send You message, but i can't. I'm new in this forum.
Can you contact me?
Or maybe You have new info how to unlock this scooter?

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#14615
freebox75 wrote:
Sun Aug 25, 2019 6:24 am
This conversion method can be applied to basically any electisan scooter ( Tier and the new Jump...) ?
This method can really be used with ANY scooter. Replace the non working parts with generic, you'd really only need a throttle and controller

Basics of it are

Throttle
Controller

Motor
Battery

Dashboard isn't necessary

#14619
Yeah there is an excessive amount of discussion regarding how to wire a generic chinese controller into these scooters. The process is not particularly difficult, you just match the hall wires, match the battery wires, and match the motor phase wires. Hook up the throttle directly to the controller using 3 wires, the non-black/red wire being the signal. If the motor makes a weird noise switch 2 of the phase wires and connect the self learn wire to get the direction correct.

All of this information applies to literally any sensored brushless motor, and can be found all over the internet in threads as old as 5+ years on other forums. This information has even been covered multiple times in this thread as well as the other thread on this forum (literally next to this one) on converting Lyft/Lime scooter, and that thread has over 100 pages so you can bet your ass its been covered time and time again. I guess my point is please search the forum and do some actual hunting to find information, pretty much any problem you encounter has been experienced before with these generic controllers as they have been around for well over 5 years.

I will update the thread with information on when I get my VESC as well as any progress I make in hacking into the stock bird controller. University just started so I am back at that full time, but I will still be sure to update with anything I can. Studying for a major in Electrical Engineering takes up a lot of time To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


/rant

Edit: for those who asked, this is the VESC I purchased https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3291306 ... 4c4dFkNIBF

And these are the units I bought to convert the 42v battery down to 3.3v for the headlight: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3269127 ... 4c4d2Eff6X

#14649
While it usually is, it is not always as Lego simple as connecting color coded wires. Some motors have different orientation for their hall sensors, requiring specific controllers. Likewise, not all brakes or throttles work correctly with different controllers. On a couple projects I had to track down the electronic gremlin messing it all up and it was a electronic brake or throttle that wasn't sending the message my controller wanted to hear. Lighting is also a common sticking point. Admittedly, there is a lot of info that people skip right over, but let's not make it a big issue. Ultimately, we're all here to learn and help others.

#14677
lurkinglime wrote:
Mon Aug 26, 2019 1:14 am
While it usually is, it is not always as Lego simple as connecting color coded wires. Some motors have different orientation for their hall sensors, requiring specific controllers. Likewise, not all brakes or throttles work correctly with different controllers. On a couple projects I had to track down the electronic gremlin messing it all up and it was a electronic brake or throttle that wasn't sending the message my controller wanted to hear. Lighting is also a common sticking point. Admittedly, there is a lot of info that people skip right over, but let's not make it a big issue. Ultimately, we're all here to learn and help others.
I completely agree, theres no issue. I just encourage people to use google before posting To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
lurkinglime liked this

#14686
Bono wrote:
Mon Aug 19, 2019 7:30 pm
Dunno. I just connect puzzle and wires schemes from this thread. This connector (5 PIN CONNECTOR) is the only one interrupting/splitting signal from motor to dashboard. MAN IN THE MIDDLE To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


5 PIN CONNECTOR:
RED - BLACK is probably battery which powers GPS board and provide Voltage info back to Bird's network.
So we end up with BLUE - GREEN - YELLOW nothing else

Anyway I think the disconnection after few sec is due to signal from the board - but I don't want to cut them in half to just merge them, becouse I'm not sure about this.

Still, dashboard doesn't lights up ?! :/
Can be that those are data wires and real deal is happening inside motor controller... then we are kinda fu%*#d
That's how i got mine fried To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


#14709
UnicycleSanta wrote:
Tue Aug 27, 2019 8:40 pm
Received my VESC today, I still have no idea how this little thing is supposed to put out more power than the 1000w XLD controller. This thing is rated at 50A continuous, whereas the big XLD controller with all the heatsinking is only rated to 38A...
ABOUT shorting connections out - yeah, few spark here and there, I hope it’s still fine To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


About VESC, just do it! But my concerns are similar.

I’m still looking forward STOCK hack to launch my birdy wheel

#14717
I think I have all the wires hooked up right . I hook up the power & the grey wires & it spins the right direction sounds smooth. Used the stock throttle but can’t get it to move. I’m using a 500 watt controller from eBay
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The wires that aren’t hooked up I don’t know where they go . Do I need to get a different throttle or ?

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