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#13848
So I have a couple more questions, the high brake, I've read articles on what it does, so it's basically the breaking system the controller uses from the battery to put it to a halt, like the original es4 scooters, would I need to connect this to the bird zero in order for it to run properly, I dont have a low brake on this controller. Also what is the self learning wires kn the controller help you connect the phase wires correctly in order to make the scooter run smoothly from the stop position, then you unplug the self learning wires so that it remembers the current connection setup, in other words help you connect the right wires in the fewest combinations of the Phase wires, also...

With my throttle, it has the ignition key, is there a specific way to wire these wires to make the key ignition work properly,as in if I turn the key to off position the scooter should turn off and not work to make sure it's not left on? I appreciate the feedback, you guys have helped so much

#13851
DevinL wrote:
Fri Aug 09, 2019 11:21 am
So I have a couple more questions, the high brake, I've read articles on what it does, so it's basically the breaking system the controller uses from the battery to put it to a halt, like the original es4 scooters, would I need to connect this to the bird zero in order for it to run properly, I dont have a low brake on this controller. Also what is the self learning wires kn the controller help you connect the phase wires correctly in order to make the scooter run smoothly from the stop position, then you unplug the self learning wires so that it remembers the current connection setup, in other words help you connect the right wires in the fewest combinations of the Phase wires, also...

With my throttle, it has the ignition key, is there a specific way to wire these wires to make the key ignition work properly,as in if I turn the key to off position the scooter should turn off and not work to make sure it's not left on? I appreciate the feedback, you guys have helped so much

The throttle has the exact same colors as the controller has for throttle, but there are 2 separate wires, the YELLOW and the BLUE can you guys explain what these are thanks guys

#13860
DevinL wrote:
Fri Aug 09, 2019 11:21 am
So I have a couple more questions, the high brake, I've read articles on what it does, so it's basically the breaking system the controller uses from the battery to put it to a halt, like the original es4 scooters, would I need to connect this to the bird zero in order for it to run properly, I dont have a low brake on this controller. Also what is the self learning wires kn the controller help you connect the phase wires correctly in order to make the scooter run smoothly from the stop position, then you unplug the self learning wires so that it remembers the current connection setup, in other words help you connect the right wires in the fewest combinations of the Phase wires, also...

With my throttle, it has the ignition key, is there a specific way to wire these wires to make the key ignition work properly,as in if I turn the key to off position the scooter should turn off and not work to make sure it's not left on? I appreciate the feedback, you guys have helped so much
It depends on which controller you have. The 500-1000w controllers have low potential and high potential electronic brake lines coming from the controller which allow for 2 different methods of engaging the electronic brakes. Furthermore, the higher wattage controllers (really anything but the 350w which is ridiculously underpowered) all have an orange wire in conjunction to the positive and negative battery wires. The orange wire can be wired into a switch of your choosing (on off, toggle, relay, or key ignition) in order to power the scooter on and off. Personally I recommend anyone looking to install a separate controller to the Bird Zero to get between a 500w and 1000w controller. 500w to 800w is probably more than good enough for most people, and they have all the features you could need.

Just a side note to all new posters/users, this thread is at 27 pages with over 260 posts. In this thread literally everything about installing an aftermarket controller/throttle/brake has been covered. How to wire the new controller, how to switch it on and off, how to get the throttle connected, how to wire the hall sensor wires and motor phase wires, how to use the self learn function, and even how to install a switch to get electronic braking working. New posts should really be about things that move the discussion forward such as progress in hacking the OEM controller, problems that have not been covered in this thread, etc. Please don't come in here and post "how do I get a bird running" or "how do I wire a controller". It has been covered.

#13923
Has anyone tried using an Arduino as a replacement for the main controller? Use it to interface both the OEM display and OEM controller? I’m pretty sure both use I2C for comms. I’m going to be getting two Zeros later today and I’m going to try and use a nano to control them. If anything comes of it I’ll share instructions and whatever code I write.

#13926
Just to post an update to this thread, I found these controller types recently:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3291306 ... dcbe0b7c7f

And am planning to test it out with the scooter. From what I have read they seem to output a better waveform and are even programmable via USB for max amperage, regen braking, LVC, etc. Seems like a very solid option for a quality scooter vs the cheap Chinese controllers. The only thing I cant figure out is how they expect you to cool it, as running 50+ amps through 3 packages is gonna generate quite a bit of heat.
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#13946
UnicycleSanta wrote:
Sun Aug 11, 2019 4:36 pm
Just to post an update to this thread, I found these controller types recently:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3291306 ... dcbe0b7c7f

And am planning to test it out with the scooter. From what I have read they seem to output a better waveform and are even programmable via USB for max amperage, regen braking, LVC, etc. Seems like a very solid option for a quality scooter vs the cheap Chinese controllers. The only thing I cant figure out is how they expect you to cool it, as running 50+ amps through 3 packages is gonna generate quite a bit of heat.
That's awesome I'm glad someone finally decided to use one of these, just be careful not to give it too much juice I watched a video where someone was using one of those to build their own scoot and they fried the motor. Best to start very low and go up slowly , and maybe have a spare motor on hand!

I was going to order one as well, those controllers are great you can customize all of the settings with your PC like you mentioned voltage, regen brake amount, max amperage, etc. Good luck on your build let us know the results and be sure to include the settings so we can benefit from your hard work.

Kiki
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#13952
Kiki626 wrote:
Mon Aug 12, 2019 1:53 am
UnicycleSanta wrote:
Sun Aug 11, 2019 4:36 pm
Just to post an update to this thread, I found these controller types recently:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3291306 ... dcbe0b7c7f

And am planning to test it out with the scooter. From what I have read they seem to output a better waveform and are even programmable via USB for max amperage, regen braking, LVC, etc. Seems like a very solid option for a quality scooter vs the cheap Chinese controllers. The only thing I cant figure out is how they expect you to cool it, as running 50+ amps through 3 packages is gonna generate quite a bit of heat.
That's awesome I'm glad someone finally decided to use one of these, just be careful not to give it too much juice I watched a video where someone was using one of those to build their own scoot and they fried the motor. Best to start very low and go up slowly , and maybe have a spare motor on hand!

I was going to order one as well, those controllers are great you can customize all of the settings with your PC like you mentioned voltage, regen brake amount, max amperage, etc. Good luck on your build let us know the results and be sure to include the settings so we can benefit from your hard work.

Kiki


I will be happy to test it all out. I have a spare motor on hand, I have a few more on the way for testing purposes. Another concern is overdrawing the battery, however there is an inline fuse as well as the BMS so I am sure the battery is fine. LiPo battery packs can put out a lot more juice than we really need. Because of the size of that controller, it will be able to fit in the stock location. Only concern is cooling those mosfets... Something I have my eye on is that you can program the max RPM, possibly allowing me to raise the top speed of the scooter. If I could cruise at 30-35mph I will be happy To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
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#14037
DevinL wrote:
Fri Aug 09, 2019 6:23 am
Here is the original controller, does anyone have any suggestion when disconnecting the wires?
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Remove the fuse, and don't be suprised if you plug it in again, it will spark a little which is expected.
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#14081
Cheedo wrote:
Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:38 pm
Has anyone tried using an Arduino as a replacement for the main controller? Use it to interface both the OEM display and OEM controller? I’m pretty sure both use I2C for comms. I’m going to be getting two Zeros later today and I’m going to try and use a nano to control them. If anything comes of it I’ll share instructions and whatever code I write.
you want the yellow and green wires on the IOT those are the serial wires. Yellow=receive Green=Transmit , Blue is 3.3v to the dashboard to turn it on. Good luck! Let us know what you find
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