[Cjwelcome]

While we await hopefully a video response from @akha on how to hack the stock scooter with an Arduino I can help out hopefully with @john Dododode you asked if you could basically take a razor scooter and strap on the motor and battery and be good to ride it? Short answer is no you really can’t, long answer is because these motors don’t work the same as just little positive and negative wired DC motors they must be used in tandem with a throttle to control the speed, acceleration, etc... and that must also be used with a motor controller in order to be the brain of that entire process. I definitely wouldn’t recommend just plugging the battery to the motor for it could be a potential fire hazard and you could very easily burn something to a point of no longer being able to use it at all and hurt yourself in the process. Now directed towards @Kodayodaboy you said your motor was vibrating like crazy trying to go faster than like 15mph? And then said you have everything wired up correctly and you’re sure of it and then said again there is a white wire which is one of the phase motor wires that could not be connected because there wasn’t a connection coming from the motor controller and it only came with 5 motor hall wires is that correct? That my friend may very well be your problem as that white wire is a ground wire I would assume ground for all the other wires that feed fluctuating power to keep the motor running in phases cleanly and smoothly and it’s very likely that not being connected in addition to putting a larger person on the scooter is not allowing excess feedback current or voltage to safely and cleanly go to a ground connection which that white wire should be taking care of and it might be instead feeding pushback voltage against itself which basically means your motor is getting up to a certain speed and then trying to half accelerate and half reverse causing the grinding essentially. If there absolutely is no white ground wire coming along with the other 5 hall wires then you may be able to get away with connecting an unused ground wire from perhaps the lights connector you aren’t using? Something along those lines just make sure it is a grounding wire and you very well may solve that issue without having to get a proper motor controller that comes with all 6 hall wires. I am curious though as to which one you purchased if you could post a link to it I can confirm for you that is in fact the case that it is technically wired correctly but not wired completely is the problem. Good luck

[Kodayodaboy]

While we await hopefully a video response from @akha on how to hack the stock scooter with an Arduino I can help out hopefully with @john Dododode you asked if you could basically take a razor scooter and strap on the motor and battery and be good to ride it? Short answer is no you really can’t, long answer is because these motors don’t work the same as just little positive and negative wired DC motors they must be used in tandem with a throttle to control the speed, acceleration, etc... and that must also be used with a motor controller in order to be the brain of that entire process. I definitely wouldn’t recommend just plugging the battery to the motor for it could be a potential fire hazard and you could very easily burn something to a point of no longer being able to use it at all and hurt yourself in the process. Now directed towards @Kodayodaboy you said your motor was vibrating like crazy trying to go faster than like 15mph? And then said you have everything wired up correctly and you’re sure of it and then said again there is a white wire which is one of the phase motor wires that could not be connected because there wasn’t a connection coming from the motor controller and it only came with 5 motor hall wires is that correct? That my friend may very well be your problem as that white wire is a ground wire I would assume ground for all the other wires that feed fluctuating power to keep the motor running in phases cleanly and smoothly and it’s very likely that not being connected in addition to putting a larger person on the scooter is not allowing excess feedback current or voltage to safely and cleanly go to a ground connection which that white wire should be taking care of and it might be instead feeding pushback voltage against itself which basically means your motor is getting up to a certain speed and then trying to half accelerate and half reverse causing the grinding essentially. If there absolutely is no white ground wire coming along with the other 5 hall wires then you may be able to get away with connecting an unused ground wire from perhaps the lights connector you aren’t using? Something along those lines just make sure it is a grounding wire and you very well may solve that issue without having to get a proper motor controller that comes with all 6 hall wires. I am curious though as to which one you purchased if you could post a link to it I can confirm for you that is in fact the case that it is technically wired correctly but not wired completely is the problem. Good luck

The first 2 controllers I used did not use the white wire either, and they both work perfectly fine. The 2nd 2 controllers I used (different brand controllers than the first 2) were wired up exactly like the first 2 controllers, but do not work correctly. The motor vibrates and doesn't spin smoothly if I go full throttle after about 5mph.

Are you absolutely sure the white wire is ground? I read on another post in this thread on page 3 that it's one of the hall sensor wires and that person didn't connect it either.

These controllers work perfectly fine:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2583980617


These are the controllers that don't work:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 4035620186

[UnicycleSanta]

Just wanted to add in my experience with the 1000w controller. I have been running a 1000w controller for weeks now and it has been working flawlessly. Low end power is definitely there with the ability to spin the front tire, but it also is completely manageable as long as you aren't a complete idiot on it. It takes about 2 minutes to get used to it. The 1000w controller hauls *ss up to 24 mph and keeps you there, it definitely has more in it but the controller limits the speed (if I could figure out how to reprogram it I would raise this limit). I have had no issues with the battery, motor, or controller. The 1000w controller is completely fine for flats as it does not always draw 1000w, its only when its going up hills that it utilizes the higher power. On flats it only uses as much power as necessary to keep a constant speed.

From my research these motors are rated to handle a max of 750-800w, so maybe get a controller rated around there. 500w will probably be fine for some, but I (6ft, 170lbs) needed more power. Even now the 1000w doesnt FLY up hills, but it makes due.

My current plan is to mount a second battery for increased range and lower voltage sag, then once I am bored of that I will throw a second 1000w controller on there and a motor in the rear. Thats when things get interesting If only I could raise the top speed to 35mph... To everyone saying that 15-20mph is already scary fast for a scooter, I used to ride modified Gopeds (gas engine) scooters that easily pushed 40mph. It isn't that bad

[Kodayodaboy]

Just wanted to add in my experience with the 1000w controller. I have been running a 1000w controller for weeks now and it has been working flawlessly. Low end power is definitely there with the ability to spin the front tire, but it also is completely manageable as long as you aren't a complete idiot on it. It takes about 2 minutes to get used to it. The 1000w controller hauls *ss up to 24 mph and keeps you there, it definitely has more in it but the controller limits the speed (if I could figure out how to reprogram it I would raise this limit). I have had no issues with the battery, motor, or controller. The 1000w controller is completely fine for flats as it does not always draw 1000w, its only when its going up hills that it utilizes the higher power. On flats it only uses as much power as necessary to keep a constant speed.

From my research these motors are rated to handle a max of 750-800w, so maybe get a controller rated around there. 500w will probably be fine for some, but I (6ft, 170lbs) needed more power. Even now the 1000w doesnt FLY up hills, but it makes due.

My current plan is to mount a second battery for increased range and lower voltage sag, then once I am bored of that I will throw a second 1000w controller on there and a motor in the rear. Thats when things get interesting If only I could raise the top speed to 35mph... To everyone saying that 15-20mph is already scary fast for a scooter, I used to ride modified Gopeds (gas engine) scooters that easily pushed 40mph. It isn't that bad

Lmao, I used to build fast Go Peds too. Back in the day when the angle plugged G23LH motors came out and they did away with the straight plugs. Talk about sketchy, those tiny rubber wheels were scary as hell. ADA Racing took a LOT of my spare money back then

[john Dododode]

@Cjwelcome thanks dude, I think you avoid me several problems since I was about to test the motor on the battery directly.
It means that I must adapt a controller, battery and motor/wheel the best I can on a regular scooter. This tank is really a pain when switching from tube to street. Same for the Lime: too heavy, too high, too long. I'm a skateboarder used to small cruisers and don't need these boats!

[Cjwelcome]

@john Dododode I’m glad to help you can probably get away with a 36V 500W motor controller it will be ample amount of torque for you and I hope everything works out!@UnicycleSanta Lol you’re an absolute mad man I hope that battery stuff works out you could probably bend some sheet aluminum as a housing and mount it to the top or bottom of the deck already and just be riding super tall on the scooter or not be able to go over speed bumps anymore for mounting the second battery. That’s crazy man and good luck! @Kodayodaboy I’m pretty sure that’s a ground wire man any piece of electronic equipment that utilizes fluctuating current, such as these motors and motor controllers, requires a ground pin somewhere that’s why many things with wall socket plugs can technically still work if you tore off the bottom circular grounding pin and just left the hot and neutral pin plugged in but any power serges makes it toast. I may be wrong and it could be a speed feedback hall pin just to give a speed readout and because those controllers don’t have a LCD pinout on them I assume that is probably the only other case but for me, and we are talking about the exact same scooter and exact same motor here, that white wire was plugged into a grounding pin on the original stock controller before I cut them all off and soldered them to their correct new spot on the new controller hall pins. A ground wire though not always necessary could very likely be the issue you’re running into. Like I said you could just test it by plugging it into an unused ground wire like for the alarm plug if you aren’t using that coming from those controllers and if it works then awesome and now you can just solder that ground into it and be done and have the scooter up and running again. Good luck still and you can just temporarily test it to see if that’s the case that’s causing your problem ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ worth a shot. Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.

[Danieladams4200]

Does this controller eork for the bird zero

[jamiesj410]

It’s not for brushless motors

[jamiesj410]

While we await hopefully a video response from @akha on how to hack the stock scooter with an Arduino I can help out hopefully with @john Dododode you asked if you could basically take a razor scooter and strap on the motor and battery and be good to ride it? Short answer is no you really can’t, long answer is because these motors don’t work the same as just little positive and negative wired DC motors they must be used in tandem with a throttle to control the speed, acceleration, etc... and that must also be used with a motor controller in order to be the brain of that entire process. I definitely wouldn’t recommend just plugging the battery to the motor for it could be a potential fire hazard and you could very easily burn something to a point of no longer being able to use it at all and hurt yourself in the process. Now directed towards @Kodayodaboy you said your motor was vibrating like crazy trying to go faster than like 15mph? And then said you have everything wired up correctly and you’re sure of it and then said again there is a white wire which is one of the phase motor wires that could not be connected because there wasn’t a connection coming from the motor controller and it only came with 5 motor hall wires is that correct? That my friend may very well be your problem as that white wire is a ground wire I would assume ground for all the other wires that feed fluctuating power to keep the motor running in phases cleanly and smoothly and it’s very likely that not being connected in addition to putting a larger person on the scooter is not allowing excess feedback current or voltage to safely and cleanly go to a ground connection which that white wire should be taking care of and it might be instead feeding pushback voltage against itself which basically means your motor is getting up to a certain speed and then trying to half accelerate and half reverse causing the grinding essentially. If there absolutely is no white ground wire coming along with the other 5 hall wires then you may be able to get away with connecting an unused ground wire from perhaps the lights connector you aren’t using? Something along those lines just make sure it is a grounding wire and you very well may solve that issue without having to get a proper motor controller that comes with all 6 hall wires. I am curious though as to which one you purchased if you could post a link to it I can confirm for you that is in fact the case that it is technically wired correctly but not wired completely is the problem. Good luck

The first 2 controllers I used did not use the white wire either, and they both work perfectly fine. The 2nd 2 controllers I used (different brand controllers than the first 2) were wired up exactly like the first 2 controllers, but do not work correctly. The motor vibrates and doesn't spin smoothly if I go full throttle after about 5mph.

Are you absolutely sure the white wire is ground? I read on another post in this thread on page 3 that it's one of the hall sensor wires and that person didn't connect it either.

These controllers work perfectly fine:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2583980617


These are the controllers that don't work:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 4035620186

Will this one work ? I don’t think 350 watts will move me I’m 200 pounds & my 3yo likes to ride with me & we go where there’s lil hills

[jamiesj410]