An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.
#13061
Hey everyone, I am in the process of converting the scooter. I am at a crossroads when it comes to the stock dashboard. The dash, lights, brake, and throttle all share a common +/- bus. This leaves 3 signal wires for the throttle, brake, and dash. Does anyone have any knowledge as to the pinout of the dash plug? I have identified the first pin to the left of the notch as ground, the next being the + bus. I connected the +/- busses to 5v to see if the dash turns on and got nothing, so either the dash requires a different voltage (such as 12v, or maybe even 36v), or the dash doesn't turn on until it recieves a signal through the signal wire.

The problem is I do not know what kind of signal this would be. I assume it may just be 5v but I don't know for sure and don't want to fry anything. My other theory is that the signal for the dash is straight battery voltage which not only turns on the dash but it also allows the dash module to determine the charge level of the battery. However there also is the problem of speed limiting. Because the throttle signal runs through the dash it's entire possible that the dash is what does the speed limiting of the stock bird.

The best way to figure this out would be to take apart a functional scooter and probe the pins to see what voltages it's running.

#13070
ndufala20 wrote:
Sun Jul 21, 2019 3:54 am
I have a zero battery wired in parelle on My es2 just sodered the positive wires to the controller
A few questions:

Do you run into problems when the ES2 battery is drained completely and the zero battery isn't?

Where was your solder point? If I'm reading this right you soldered wires from the zero battery + and - directly to the underside of the controller board at the points where the ES2 + and - connect to the board? Could you have also just run a tap from the current ES2 + and - wires and connected those to the zero battery?

Do you notice any change in how it runs? Is your battery readout accurate?
jamiesj410 liked this

#13072
@UnicycleSanta Sorry I can’t help with the pin out situation but I wanted to correct you for sake of future people that may be needing to order the throttle motor controller kit online. You posted earlier a link to just the motor controller and then asked if there was a link to the display/throttle part. The controller you linked does not have a 6 pin display connector on it and only has the throttle and brake connector so be careful or be aware if you’ve ordered the controller already you won’t be able to hook it up to any display dashboard...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SHBGF ... th=1&psc=1

...here is the link I used for the throttle/motor controller bundle with both. Just wanted to limit any confusion or frustration on new people ordering things that might not be what works the best To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
my motor controller finally came in but I’ll have work all this week so I look forward to your updates as well and if you have questions for me then let me know I’ll try to check this thread regularly if that’s getting too hard I’ll just put my number for calls or texts to make it easier ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
bdawwgg liked this

#13079
Got mine all working with the 30 dollar motor controller. I first wired it all up matching colors and the motor just vibrated, so I switched the phase wires so it was Yellow-Yellow, Green-Blue, Blue-Green and it seems to work. The diagram from earlier in this thread says if its "noisy" it needs to be changed again. What noise is considered bad? The motor makes noise when running and sends a buzzy feeling up through the bars at lower speeds when it's lugging. It also doesn't have much low end power, going up a driveway even needs some help. It is possible the battery is just low, charger will be here soon.
Cjwelcome wrote:
Sun Jul 21, 2019 11:27 pm
@UnicycleSanta Sorry I can’t help with the pin out situation but I wanted to correct you for sake of future people that may be needing to order the throttle motor controller kit online. You posted earlier a link to just the motor controller and then asked if there was a link to the display/throttle part. The controller you linked does not have a 6 pin display connector on it and only has the throttle and brake connector so be careful or be aware if you’ve ordered the controller already you won’t be able to hook it up to any display dashboard...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SHBGF ... th=1&psc=1

...here is the link I used for the throttle/motor controller bundle with both. Just wanted to limit any confusion or frustration on new people ordering things that might not be what works the best To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
my motor controller finally came in but I’ll have work all this week so I look forward to your updates as well and if you have questions for me then let me know I’ll try to check this thread regularly if that’s getting too hard I’ll just put my number for calls or texts to make it easier ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I noticed that a while after I posted it To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
I might still buy that kit to make use of a dash and all. How is the low end power using the kit you purchased? Does it get up to speed pretty fast? Having all those options (magnet count, etc) might make a difference in how efficiently it runs vs just using a bog standard controller with no specific configuration.

Edit: After doing some reading of the M365 overvolting thread, I think I am going to replace the 350w controller with a 1000w and bypass the BMS to see if I can get more out of this motor. How do you access the BMS/remove the battery in the bird zero? The 350w controller really makes it feel dull with barely any low end power. Only issue is the 1000w controller wont fit in the little section, so I will have to externally mount it. Upside is this will allow adequate airflow to the controller vs being inside that little compartment where it gets fairly warm.

#13097
UnicycleSanta wrote:
Mon Jul 22, 2019 3:05 am
Got mine all working with the 30 dollar motor controller. I first wired it all up matching colors and the motor just vibrated, so I switched the phase wires so it was Yellow-Yellow, Green-Blue, Blue-Green and it seems to work. The diagram from earlier in this thread says if its "noisy" it needs to be changed again. What noise is considered bad? The motor makes noise when running and sends a buzzy feeling up through the bars at lower speeds when it's lugging. It also doesn't have much low end power, going up a driveway even needs some help. It is possible the battery is just low, charger will be here soon.
Cjwelcome wrote:
Sun Jul 21, 2019 11:27 pm
@UnicycleSanta Sorry I can’t help with the pin out situation but I wanted to correct you for sake of future people that may be needing to order the throttle motor controller kit online. You posted earlier a link to just the motor controller and then asked if there was a link to the display/throttle part. The controller you linked does not have a 6 pin display connector on it and only has the throttle and brake connector so be careful or be aware if you’ve ordered the controller already you won’t be able to hook it up to any display dashboard...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SHBGF ... th=1&psc=1

...here is the link I used for the throttle/motor controller bundle with both. Just wanted to limit any confusion or frustration on new people ordering things that might not be what works the best To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
my motor controller finally came in but I’ll have work all this week so I look forward to your updates as well and if you have questions for me then let me know I’ll try to check this thread regularly if that’s getting too hard I’ll just put my number for calls or texts to make it easier ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I noticed that a while after I posted it To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
I might still buy that kit to make use of a dash and all. How is the low end power using the kit you purchased? Does it get up to speed pretty fast? Having all those options (magnet count, etc) might make a difference in how efficiently it runs vs just using a bog standard controller with no specific configuration.

Edit: After doing some reading of the M365 overvolting thread, I think I am going to replace the 350w controller with a 1000w and bypass the BMS to see if I can get more out of this motor. How do you access the BMS/remove the battery in the bird zero? The 350w controller really makes it feel dull with barely any low end power. Only issue is the 1000w controller wont fit in the little section, so I will have to externally mount it. Upside is this will allow adequate airflow to the controller vs being inside that little compartment where it gets fairly warm.
A word of warning Mr.UnicycleSanta To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
if you plan to just throw a 36V 1000W motor controller, if they even make one that is, onto the Bird Zero then be cautious as what your sacrificing here not only could be range but also lifetime of the motor. You wanna pump 1000W through this motor that’s only rated for the 350W then it’s going to get HOT REALLY FAST if not just completely fry something fast inside the motor and be completely useless, sure you might get like a mile or so doing 30mph but that’s it and then your scooter is trashed. Needless to say if you don’t play by the rules of conservation of energy and all the equations used to calculate voltage/current/power then there are many things that you could hurt or completely break all together in the name of “getting more out of this motor” I would strongly advise against trying to put a 1000W controller on your scooter To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.

#13099
Cjwelcome wrote:
Mon Jul 22, 2019 2:04 pm


A word of warning Mr.UnicycleSanta To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
if you plan to just throw a 36V 1000W motor controller, if they even make one that is, onto the Bird Zero then be cautious as what your sacrificing here not only could be range but also lifetime of the motor. You wanna pump 1000W through this motor that’s only rated for the 350W then it’s going to get HOT REALLY FAST if not just completely fry something fast inside the motor and be completely useless, sure you might get like a mile or so doing 30mph but that’s it and then your scooter is trashed. Needless to say if you don’t play by the rules of conservation of energy and all the equations used to calculate voltage/current/power then there are many things that you could hurt or completely break all together in the name of “getting more out of this motor” I would strongly advise against trying to put a 1000W controller on your scooter To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
It was my understanding that the power consumption is not determined by the motor controller, but by the motor itself. Just because the controller is capable of handling 1000w doesn't mean the most will draw that much power. Similar to how many people have a 750w PSU in their computer but only ever draw 300w due to that being the maximum draw of the components in the computer. Please correct me if im wrong To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.


Also, how do you get the battery out of this scooter? I assume the rubber grip material needs to be removed.

#13101
@UnicycleSanta yes you are correct, parts and components inside PCs only draw the needed current they are rated for but think of it this way, those PC parts all have built in failsafes and circuits who’s soul purpose is to spoon feed it it’s designated current and power even when the power supply is trying to push it 1000W let’s say. A motor such as these scooter motors do not have such complex circuit boards built into them it’s just magnetic phase coils that will accept whatever is given to them meaning unless the Motor controller is programmed to do the spoon feeding it will try to push 1000W worth of current (Current x Voltage = Watts) To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
into that motor and end up with all the problems I talked about previously, overheating/ frying wires etc...I would still not recommend doing that, maybe if you only moved up to like a 500W? But even then you’re only shortening the life of the motor through overheating. The motor will top out at what it can handle and the rest of the current will be given off as heat from the motor might even start melting the plastic housing To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
and yes you are correct about the battery you need to take off the grip rubber and the bottom panel and unscrew all the screws and it will pop right off from under the deck.


#13112
I know what you mean about the noise and the no low end power. That’s what made me switch out the Chinese motor controller for my es4 guts. Things JUST fit together. I still haven’t figured out how to wire the zeros battery in parallel without breaking something though, could use some advice on that (I posted earlier in this thread).

I’m very curious to know how your rig turns out with the upgraded controller, I had considered doing that myself - there are places that sell sine wave controllers that are very small but I don’t have links. The key would be getting something more powerful but also sine wave otherwise it’ll make that noise you hear when it’s trying to make it up a hill. At least, that’s what I was told

Good luck and keep us updated

#13121
UnicycleSanta wrote:
Mon Jul 22, 2019 3:25 pm
Also, how do you get the battery out of this scooter? I assume the rubber grip material needs to be removed.
There are several screws in addition to all the ones on the bottom, the other ones you need in order to remove the battery once you get the bottom off are under the rubber foot thing. You can see where they are and just cut the rubber or lift it up to access them.

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