Got mine all working with the 30 dollar motor controller. I first wired it all up matching colors and the motor just vibrated, so I switched the phase wires so it was Yellow-Yellow, Green-Blue, Blue-Green and it seems to work. The diagram from earlier in this thread says if its "noisy" it needs to be changed again. What noise is considered bad? The motor makes noise when running and sends a buzzy feeling up through the bars at lower speeds when it's lugging. It also doesn't have much low end power, going up a driveway even needs some help. It is possible the battery is just low, charger will be here soon.
Cjwelcome wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 21, 2019 11:27 pm
@UnicycleSanta Sorry I can’t help with the pin out situation but I wanted to correct you for sake of future people that may be needing to order the throttle motor controller kit online. You posted earlier a link to just the motor controller and then asked if there was a link to the display/throttle part. The controller you linked does not have a 6 pin display connector on it and only has the throttle and brake connector so be careful or be aware if you’ve ordered the controller already you won’t be able to hook it up to any display dashboard...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SHBGF ... th=1&psc=1
...here is the link I used for the throttle/motor controller bundle with both. Just wanted to limit any confusion or frustration on new people ordering things that might not be what works the best To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
my motor controller finally came in but I’ll have work all this week so I look forward to your updates as well and if you have questions for me then let me know I’ll try to check this thread regularly if that’s getting too hard I’ll just put my number for calls or texts to make it easier ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I noticed that a while after I posted it To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
I might still buy that kit to make use of a dash and all. How is the low end power using the kit you purchased? Does it get up to speed pretty fast? Having all those options (magnet count, etc) might make a difference in how efficiently it runs vs just using a bog standard controller with no specific configuration.
Edit: After doing some reading of the M365 overvolting thread, I think I am going to replace the 350w controller with a 1000w and bypass the BMS to see if I can get more out of this motor. How do you access the BMS/remove the battery in the bird zero? The 350w controller really makes it feel dull with barely any low end power. Only issue is the 1000w controller wont fit in the little section, so I will have to externally mount it. Upside is this will allow adequate airflow to the controller vs being inside that little compartment where it gets fairly warm.