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xdencio wrote:
Fri Jun 21, 2019 4:23 pm
iddik75014 wrote:
Fri Jun 21, 2019 12:51 pm
xdencio wrote:
Wed Jun 19, 2019 8:20 am
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The 10pin plug connects to a Y-wire harness that splits and connects to the GPS and LCD display. I am still thinking if instead of connecting the GPS module, why not directly connect it to the 6pin? So any thoughts from anyone before i proceed, don't want to ruin the motor controller.

So on that way you want to bypass the GPS tracker module and connect directly to keep the dashboard fonctionality ?

Did you connect the wires ?
Did it work ?
Update, the Red wire has a constant voltage of 42v, which i assume will power the motor when activated thru the GPS module, i'm still looking at the PCB of the controlbox and trying to map out its schematics (unless anyone has found it already) don't want to fry this extra i have (don't have Bird,Lime..etc where i am from) So if anyone who lives around that has them can definitely experiment with this.

I think we must replace the scooter electric motor controller at least and then may be follow what you propose regarding the wires direct connection. ... age=en_US

Hiya everybody........
First of thanks to original poster and all the scootertalk peeps for the information and inspiration. I just love my new electisan/bird tank and with this kit i ended up with a fast (as far as im concerned 23mph on solid 8 inch wheels is fast enough) and decent range scooter with front and rear lights and a decent lcd user interface.
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I know we are all interested in using the existing bird controller/hardware but i thought id share my after market controller conversion part list for any us/ europe/uk users.

i chose this controller/throttle combo as it has the same exact programmable throttle lcd as the fastest dualtron escoots and has the same wiring colours as original post motor controller.
there are cheaper motor + throttle + lcd options as ever but this thing really is a diamond to use with lots of compatible aftermarket controller options if an upgrade was needed.
features include . amps control, battery voltage selection, zero start , wheel size , motor magnet number, torque amount, power limiting, low voltage cutoff. cruise control, three speed settings......oh my

I recommend cutting the all wires one set at a time at the original bird controller as close as possible to housing then cut sheathing to display the wire colors.
the black cable and plug are the motor phase and hall sensor wires and colors match exactly to new controller wiring.
the thick black cable and large connector are for the original birds throttle, brake switch, and led which is sadly not usable due to 5v requirement. eg a pain in the ass for lazy old me

the bird brake lever switch wiring will have to be continuity (use multi meter) tested from the top three wires (red black blue) in brake lever to the bottom of the small black cable that leads from top headset to where the original controller is at the bottom to find corresponding wires. these then connect to the Hall type brake connector in my controller diagram. again you need to cut off the original small black cable with the small juliet connector controller as close as possible to the original bird controller housing.

Motor controller and three speed programmable throttle ... r=1-5&th=1
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36v compatible front lights

i chose these as the existing leds as in the bird led is five volts and runs of mainboard up top so a dc to dc covertor would be needed . i negated this by adding both rear and front lights to the black and white wires that tail from the new lcd throttle wiring loom. i can then switch the lights on and off using new throttle (hold down mode button for 2 secs)
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ANTI THEFT.....ish
switch bike on using generic bluetooth swith with included app or save ton of effort and use the lcd throttle to add your passcode key To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
(guide below)

Bluetooth controlled switch OPTIONAL as a 5v feed has to be aquired from the controller to power this unit full time.
the original power wire in above diagram is placed in

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Hope this helps save some time for someone ,
kind regards

ps here is the lcd throttle programs and guide

Press and hold the power and mode key to enter the power-on password and menu setting selection interface (S0 interface). On the S0 interface, short press the key to switch the password digits, short press the key to change the current digit value;
3.1 Enter “1111” long button to enter S1 interface, short button to switch the number of password digits, short button to change the current digit value. After the password is modified, press the long button to exit the S1 interface to the normal display interface, and save the last set password. (Note: You need to enter this password for the next boot. If the password is set to “0000”, there is no password status, and the next time you boot, you will enter the normal display interface).
3.2 Enter “6666” and press the long button to enter the program menu setting interface. In any parameter state, short button to switch parameters, short press or long button to increase or decrease the value (long button changes the value plus or minus direction, “A” is displayed on the left side) Indicates to increase the value. The left side displays “d” to decrease the value. After the modification, the short button switches to the next parameter and saves the previous parameter value. After the parameter is modified, press and hold the + button to exit the setting interface, or wait for 8 The seconds automatically exit and save the parameters.

program menu settings
P01: backlight brightness, level 1 is the darkest, level 3 is the brightest;
P02: mileage unit, 0: KM; 1: MILE;
P03: Voltage level: 24V, 36V, 48V, default 36V;
P04: Sleep time: 0, no sleep; other numbers are sleep time, range: 1-60; unit minutes;
P05: Power assist position: 0: 3 file mode;
P06: Wheel diameter: unit, inch; accuracy: 0.1;
P07: Number of speed magnets: Range: 0-255;
P08: Speed ​​limit: range 0-100km/h, not opened
P09: zero start, non-zero start setting, 0: zero start; 1: non-zero start;
P10: Drive mode setting 0 : Power drive (determine how much power is output through the booster gear, and the switch is invalid at this time).
1 : Electric drive (driven by the rotary handle, the power assist position is invalid at this time).
2 : The power assist drive and the electric drive coexist at the same time (the electric drive is invalid in the zero start state).
P11: Boost sensitivity setting is not activated
P12: Boost start strength setting is not open
P13: Power magnetic disk type setting is not open
P14: Controller current limit value setting Default 12A Range: 1-20A
P15: Controller undervoltage value
P16: ODO clear setting Long press the plus button for 5 seconds ODO clear
P17:0: cruise is not enabled, 1: cruise is enabled; auto cruise is optional (only valid for protocol 2)
P18: Display speed ratio adjustment range: 50%~150%,
P19: 0 gear enable bit, 0: 0 gear, 1: 0 gear
P20:0: Protocol No. 2 1: 5S Protocol 2: Alternate 3: Alternate

The next Episode.......THE KOI.........

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Last edited by Bob moon on Tue Jun 25, 2019 1:51 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Kodayodaboy, Stradonitz, Mr.GooGoo and 1 others liked this

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