An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Brains of the e-scooter. Topics covering controllers, throttles, etc in this section.
By John2479
#16050
I conected my cables directly to the battery cells now and had a good time. But now my charger refuses to get it up again. Current voltage is 35v that seems ok. I will try a different charger, but have no real explanation right now.
By ReZ
#16084
jbdigital wrote:
Fri Sep 27, 2019 4:26 am
John2479 wrote:
Wed Sep 18, 2019 3:58 pm
The battery also communicates with the controller and switches off when no signal is coming.
lurkinglime wrote:
Wed Sep 18, 2019 5:40 pm
John2479 wrote:
Wed Sep 18, 2019 3:58 pm
The battery also communicates with the controller and switches off when no signal is coming.
If you are using the original Ninebot ES batteries, you will probably run into issues with a 3rd party controller. I believe the BMS on these batteries expects communication from the controller. Without it, it will shut off when power beyond a low threshold is drawn. You can bypass the BMS and wire your +/- output leads directly to the battery, and leave the BMS in place for charging.
This is what I came up with doing research too. For some reason indeed none of the third party controllers have any communication for BMS. I will try to bypass the BMS and possibly report how it goes.
Update?
By basti256
#16272
I made it wih the battery, but it's nothing for softies :o

-You'll take an Grinder and cut VERY VERY carefully on the edges of the case. Don't cut to deep!

-If you made it the right way this is what you will see:
Image

-Un-solder the two wires that go to your controller ( red for + black for -)

-Take some wire and solder them directly to the battery positive and negative.
-For the positive pin you can (or should) use the 40 amp fuse. So you have a bit of safety in what you're doing :D.

Image

-After this you connect the negative pin on the right side:
Image

-It should look like this now:

Image

Done. The Controlelr in the battery is still for charging the battery but the controller can't switch off the output anymore. and you can drive.
By Danyparis
#17348
basti256 wrote:
Mon Oct 07, 2019 3:17 am
I made it wih the battery, but it's nothing for softies :o

-You'll take an Grinder and cut VERY VERY carefully on the edges of the case. Don't cut to deep!

-If you made it the right way this is what you will see:
Image

-Un-solder the two wires that go to your controller ( red for + black for -)

-Take some wire and solder them directly to the battery positive and negative.
-For the positive pin you can (or should) use the 40 amp fuse. So you have a bit of safety in what you're doing :D.

Image

-After this you connect the negative pin on the right side:
Image

-It should look like this now:

Image

Done. The Controlelr in the battery is still for charging the battery but the controller can't switch off the output anymore. and you can drive.
+1

As this was a rental version whos overstock was […]

Any one got any info on beryl bikes I seen a few[…]

LH/ TF-100 Style Display.

Hi I recently converted a Bird Zero to a personal […]

How do you operate dash without button? I have[…]