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Brains of the e-scooter. Topics covering controllers, throttles, etc in this section.
By Ozzman86
Hi All

I just recieved a new controller from and can seem to find anywhere online where the SWCLK, SWDIO, Ground and 3.3V locations are on this controller.


Anyone have any idea's or have soldered on this revision?
By Sc00tr
Can you post a better quality image?
Ozzman86 wrote:
Sun Oct 10, 2021 12:48 pm
Hi All

I just recieved a new controller from and can seem to find anywhere online where the SWCLK, SWDIO, Ground and 3.3V locations are on this controller.


Anyone have any idea's or have soldered on this revision?
By PotatoBill
My guess is the three pin connector. You could always look at the datasheet for the STM chips debug pins and use a multimeter to check continuity. Perhaps though since it's not a rental unit, it's meant to be flashed via Bluetooth when connected to the g30 dash.
By Aural Arch
My response is probably too late to help the OP, but I hope it may help others in the same predicament.

There is a video on YouTube which I can not find at the moment (or I am failing to recognize it) which explains & shows that the PIN holes for an ST-Link v2 device have been moved to the back/bottom side of PCB for at least one updated version/model of the ESC controller for G30 Max scooters.

(I am sorry I can not provide a link to this video. Even though I watched it yesterday, I did so in a browser that I wasn't signed into my account so it isn't in my history. And it is a browser designed not to save history.)

If my memory is accurate, the PIN holes are near the center bottom of the opposite side of the board.
But, assuming you know what to look for, you will be able to locate them fairly easily on own whatever they may be on your board.

The presenter of the video warns to be extra careful not to damage the board while extracting it from the casing!
I have previously removed these ESC boards from their casing and I discovered a trick that I haven't seen anyone else using or describing.
I used a thin silicon-based lubricant in a spray can with a plastic tube to direct the output to the corners & edges of the board once I removed some of the silicon from the perimeter of the PCB.
The silicon lubricant acts as a mild solvent to the silicon gel protecting the board making it much easier to remove.
The silicon lubricant is perfectly safe and can not damage any of the electronic components. You can basically flood the perimeter with the lubricant and try to coax in underneath the board.
Let it sit for a few minutes to seep under the board and begin dissolving the bond. You may need to pry the board up a little at a time and add more lubricant and wait a moment it to dissolve the bond.
Don't leave it for too long, it will gradually be absorbed (and evaporate?) evenly into the gel softening the entire mass which actually increases its suction power making it harder to remove instead of dissolving the bond at the surface to facilitate removal!
I also used the mild heat of a hair dryer to facilitate the penetration of the lubricant and to accelerate its effects a bit. Do not apply any heat that is too hot for you to touch with your bare fingers!

I was able to remove the board quite easily and without applying any strong forces that might damage any components using this technique.

You will need to supply power to the controller from the ST-Link. Either 5v or 3.3v will work. This will not be one of the 3 pin holes you identify on the back for debugging/diagnostics.
Be sure that you connect the power from the ST-Link to a pin or cable on the ESC which uses the same voltage!

You can use the continuity or the resistance feature of your multimeter to identify the ground (GND) pin

For the other two pins (SoftWare CLocK and SoftWare Diagnostic/Debig In & Out) just guess. Nothing can be damaged by getting it wrong (between those two connections!). Either it will work or it will not.
You have a 50% of getting it right the first time & a 100% chance of getting it right on the second attempt (assuming you switch which pins those wires connect to on the ST-Link; if that isn't obvious to you, perhaps you should reconsider whether this is something you should be attempting...)

I hope this is helpful to someone!

BTW, any details that may seem to be missing from this detailed set of instructions are not missing, they were intentionally omitted! I did this to let you know that if you do not already know that information and you can not figure out how to find it, this is probably not something you should be doing right now. Consider investing a little bit of time (an hour or so?) learning some of the most fundamental concepts of this topic first. It will likely save you the cost of replacing this or other components; and it will reduce the number of questions here which, quite frankly, are actually outside the scope of this forum.
I have observed a similar pattern of detail omission in the other guides & instructions posted here and I presume their motives are similar even if they have not consciously considered it.
While beginners/noobs are welcome, there is a certain amount of basic knowledge/understanding that one needs to possess before jumping into projects of this nature.
Anyone with reasonable listening & comprehension skills can learn those fundamentals watching several YouTube videos.

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