An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Covers electric scooter models whether shared or for consumers.
By ChrisB
#57270
iMamba wrote:
Fri Oct 14, 2022 12:04 pm
ChrisB wrote:[quote=M365GUY post_id=57116 time=<a href="tel:1659486475" data-original-title="" title="">1659486475</a> user_id=76007]
Yea I’m definitely not saying it’s smart or safe to get these scooters going fast. You can obviously mess yourself up badly doing so. I’m more interested in pushing the limits just to see where the limits are. Plus having fast acceleration is just a cool feeling.

Let us know how it goes when you run the 75100 on a bird 2 motor. I think it’s going to be better than running it on the max motor.

And to the people having trouble charging after the BMS bypass. This is very common, can’t tell you why it happens but it does. Could be something to do with it not getting a signal from the other boards and just stops working. Your options are to change the BMS or take the huge risk and bulk charge using the discharge plug. I do not recommend doing this as you will have no protection at all and when the cells start to become unbalanced bad things will happen.
So replace the BMS, it’s not difficult.
I thought I replied after I installed the FS 75/100 in a bird 2 but apparently I didn't so better late than never.
Highly recommended sums it up. I'm using the stock 10s battery pack and I get 30-33mph ( yes mph) when using field weakening set to 45 amps. Without field weakening top speed is 22-24mph.

I see peaks of up to 3kw during acceleration and just above 1kw cruising at WOT. Without field weakening I get slightly less during acceleration but when cruising at WOT I only see 600w-900w. I do need to use some throttle management with field weakening because after three to four miles at WOT the motor heats up significantly. Without field weakening there is no heat issues.
Higher voltage would help the heat issues but this scooter will require some unique solution to add more cells for higher voltage. There isn't much room to add anything. I've been thinking about a way to accomplish this without looking totally ghetto, gonna be difficult so Im probably going to leave as is.

Will the FS 75/100 work on a Lime Gen 4 sensorless wheel? With Field Weakening as well? Ready to purchase it now just want to be certain beforehand. Thanks!
[/quote]

Yes, will work with FW sensor or sensorless. I’m running mine right now sensorless since one of my sensor wires is broke and I’m too lazy to fix. Difference isn’t even perceptible after a little tuning.
By M365GUY
#57271
Chris thanks for the reminder about disabling filters, I read that before but I totally forgot about it until I just read that again. I am meeting with the customer soon to update the firmware with 5.3. I loaded 5.2 on it originally because I’m having trouble getting the latest version of vesc tool on my pc. Should have everything sorted out and now that I know the procedure for firmware updates on the 75100 it should be pretty smooth.
Appreciate the heads up about the filters.
By M365GUY
#57275
Thought about how I could mount a motor to the front again since I haven’t done anything with these for a long time. For anyone considering something similar I can save you the time and say it works but the geometry is as bad as it looks. There is a reason that there are specific geometry rules you need to stay within for a decent steering experience and I believe this design is far outside those rules. I guess you can say it wants to oversteer or maybe understeer I don’t really know but it’s what you might call sketchy AF.
But it’s pretty sweet feeling the suspension as it’s super smooth with the single spring. I only had 1 otherwise I would have used 2.
Back to the straight fork idea I started with before I got sidetracked trying this.
If anyone else has a motor mounted up front please post some pictures. It’s not as easy as you would think using the stock motor axle.
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By M365GUY
#57279
I almost ordered the maker version of the 75-100 but I read something about the firmware not being able to update just like flipsky did originally. Then yesterday I found something saying it can be updated so they just need to make things a little more confusing and then I’ll order it. Wouldn’t be much fun if everything just worked right 😂

I will let you know if I buy one. I’m waiting till the big sale starts tomorrow on AliExpress. I might order a massive 130mm wide stator hub motor at 7000 watts. It’s the biggest most powerful 6” motor ever made. Been talking with the seller and he thinks it can handle a 96530 fardriver at 250 /530 battery/ phase amps at 96v.
I’m just trying to locate a tire for it and not having much luck. I need a 15”x 7 x6.5” or something close.
130mm stator and magnets in a DD hub motor… that’s like the power of 6 bird motors.
By M365GUY
#57280
And Chris if you’re still thinking about adding more battery to your max your options as I’m sure you know are to add space in the deck by using a 3d printed spacer however deep you need. Or mount to the front post. I have done that on pretty much every max I have built because I run 20s on pretty much everything. I don’t think it looks bad as long as you’re only going with a 2 cell deep space. It ends up being pretty slim if you can find a aluminum case that will fit 2 cells stacked and however long you need. Then just use the bracket for the gps to mount it. You just need to drill mounting acces holes in the front, mount it then install the battery once it’s mounted. Then I just use caps to seal off the access holes. I probably have a picture on my Ninebot Max Ultimate post I made a while ago. It’s in the ninebot section if you want to check it out.
I kinda go through the process of the build starting with the big tires I used. That was a pretty unique scooter, haven’t seen anything like it yet. Hopefully the guy who bought it is enjoying it
By polm
#57286
ChrisB wrote:
Wed Oct 26, 2022 10:40 am
polm wrote:
Fri Oct 21, 2022 5:25 pm
Anybody tried to use can bus ? Listen messages, talk with motor controller ?
I’ve tried both but no success.
I manage to read it. There are more than 700 messages per seconde over 70 identifiers :o
I found some useful messages, used for brack, accelerator and rear light.
So event if the scooter is locked, these messages are sent on the can bus.

I manage to manually send messages to light rear light.

Without an unlocked scooter it's hard to guess how work the lock.
By ChrisB
#57375
quote=M365GUY post_id=57275 time=1667039567 user_id=76007]
Thought about how I could mount a motor to the front again since I haven’t done anything with these for a long time. For anyone considering something similar I can save you the time and say it works but the geometry is as bad as it looks. There is a reason that there are specific geometry rules you need to stay within for a decent steering experience and I believe this design is far outside those rules. I guess you can say it wants to oversteer or maybe understeer I don’t really know but it’s what you might call sketchy AF.
But it’s pretty sweet feeling the suspension as it’s super smooth with the single spring. I only had 1 otherwise I would have used 2.
Back to the straight fork idea I started with before I got sidetracked trying this.
If anyone else has a motor mounted up front please post some pictures. It’s not as easy as you would think using the stock motor axle.
Image
Image
[/quote]

Ha! I’ve been thinking of mounting another mount up front as well. I haven’t even looked to see how the front wheel is mounted on the bird so forgive me if this sounds stupid. My idea is to press the axle out of the stator of the bird motor that’s going to be used in the front , press or purchase another axle from a another motor which has conventional threads that will allow it to be mounted in the existing fork.
I have a bird 2 motor that I am in the middle of rewinding right now. Pressing out the axle doesn’t look that hard. Some heat will definitely help.

Some news since I last visited. I swapped my controller for a VESC based Unity. Very unique controller that’s rated for only 12s but…. It’s a two channel or, both channels can be paralleled to work together on a single motor. 120A per channel or 300A when paralleled.
My previous controllers we’re getting too hot after putting them really hard. I wanted something that I didn’t need to worry about. This fit the bill perfectly, especially since I’m not going higher than 12s for this scooter.
I was surprised at the power difference when installed. I thought the battery was limiting me but no, it’s able to pump out 100A easily. Motor is now getting hot, I’m able to push significantly more power to it. It’s crazy for 10S!!! This is why I want two motors now. I already a dual channel controller, I just need to load different firmware and do a little rewiring. Plus it’s VESC which intelligently syncs the motors for traction control!!!

Pic of the bird motors stator. I was in the process of documenting how many turns and what winding pattern was used for each phase. It’s similar but not exactly the same as a DLRK winding used on 14pole outrunners. If you guys ever need to know, this is considered a 30 pole motor, 254mm outside diameter. Not necessary but it’s useful info to get VESCs speed to display properly during logging or live telemetry.
You count the magnets not the stator “ teeth “.
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By ChrisB
#57376
About adding more battery…. I’m sort of limited on doing that since my controller takes up half of the extra room.
I still have some room underneath to get me to 12s 6p but it will be tight.

I’m actually ok with 10 for now. I do have an idea to do like the mountain board guys do which is make a battery pack which is on top of the board in between their feet. They use all sorts of things to put the batteries in. Ammo boxes, Tupperware containers. Lol! Even going fully ghetto and wrapping the pack in packing tape!
I’d like to double my capacity by doing this. It will not only give me more capacity but it will also have much less voltage sag under load. Voltage sag affects things MUCH more than most people realize.
But, my first priority is to figure out how to get another motor in the front.
By ChrisB
#57377
Ha! Went out and pushed it really hard today with everything stock but the unity controller I mentioned above. Like I said, motor is now my weak point.
Was halfway home and fried a winding. Had no choice but to hide scooter in the woods and hoof if home. Long walk!!!

Got home, drove back to pick up the scooter. Disassembled the motor and saw the unmistakable signs of a fried winding. Probably smelled as well but I mysteriously and permanently lost my sense of smell a few years ago. ( before Covid, just saying). Really, really sucks!!! Never know what your missing till it’s gone!!!

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Ok enough self pity. Lol! Gonna swap the motor. Ultimately need to wind another motor for better power handling or even better, dual motor as I mentioned above.

Took a look at how the front wheel is mounted. Internal threads :roll:. Going to have to be creative. I still think it’s possible to replace the axle with another with the diameter. External threaded axle may work after modifying the fork. Of course it will need to be hollow for wires. All ideas welcome.
By ChrisB
#57378
One more thing. The motors on these are SUPER EASY to remove. Ingenious design actually. Takes all but a minute or two if you have the tools ready. Impact driver and two security tork bits is all it takes.
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