An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.
Will try that thank you. That’s what I was thinking, I have some conventional BMX nuts ill throw on when I manage to get the dann thing off To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
Did you replace the nuts with new ones? would you happen to know the diameter of the thread and how many threads per inch (tpi)? It looks like 9mm to me but if I can get the right one right away that’d be awesomeuvegpohar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 11:32 amWhat I did was even more simple: took the WD-40 spray and gave them a good amount. Came back to the scooter the next morning and I could unscrew them simply with a big plier... If it won't move and you don't want custom tools, take a Dremel and make two paralel straight surfaces on the side of the screw so you'll be able to grab it with a wrench and twist it. I can attach a picture later.
Any input is appreciated, and as you said hopefully this thread will help someone else with the same problemDSAdev wrote:Late, I know... but maybe still helpful for others dealing with this and many other custom tamper-resistant schemes.
Especially around Christmas you may have seen on TV, the "Gator Grip" universal socket - a 3/8" drive deep socket featuring spring-loaded cylindrical pins that can form around the shape of conventional hex shapes, and unusual shapes, wingnuts, worn and deformed fasteners, etc.
Among the many offerings (and manufacturers) I've seen at Amazon, there are even heavier-duty versions made with closer-fitting hexagonal pins. But the original can be found even at Walmart.
With custom fastener designs on other e-vehicles, I've gotten lucky with the 5-sided utility socket, and the 7- and 11-splined sockets (made for locking auto rims), as appropriate.
Have also found 5-lobe security Torx bit sets at Amazon - didn't even know these were "a thing" until encountering them on one e-bike.
Hey, sorry for the late reply, but so far I have not been able to find the right six sided nut for the rear wheel thread, seems kinda unique. But my previously described method - grinding down two sides of the original nut - provides more than enough gripping surface to tighten/release the nut.
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