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Discuss the Xiaomi mijia mi M365 original and pro versions in this forum. Topics include hardware, software, hacking, riding, and everything in between.
#13552
Mattr567 wrote:
Thu Aug 01, 2019 10:15 pm
overdoser wrote:
Thu Aug 01, 2019 12:51 pm
Thanks everyone for all the useful info in this thread. The same thing happened to me and I'm not sure what was the cause. At the time when my controller burned out I was running custom firmware with ver 1.5.5 due to upgrading to pro dashboard and BMS 116 but I was on the stock m365 battery. I also had KERS turned on initially maybe for a couple rides but then changed it to off by setting the activation to 40 kmph.

For my power constant I never went below 38000 and KERS was always set to "weak." Speed limit was unlocked and I was averaging 22mph (35kmph). My ride on a local bike does have me go under and then up about 4-5 bridges and I weigh 185lbs. The stock motor struggling to get me up the incline after going under the road/bridge is what made me upgrade to a bird zero wheel.

After i burned out my stock m365 controller, I upgraded to a M365 pro controller using firmware 1.5.5 but using BMS 115 which is for the stock m365 battery. Now I'm on firmware 1.5.5 using gonkad365 from http://xiaoscooter.site/en/custom-xiaom ... re-builder. Seems like that is what is suggested for my specific setup (stock battery with pro display).

I also went back to my stock m365 motor until I can figure out what is safest setting to prevent burning out another controller with a bird zero motor. Could it have been due to the motor regenerating too much power going downhill while battery is fully charged even though I have KERS set to 40km and regen "weak?" Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I just replaced the controller as well as adding a 2nd battery and have been riding with no issues at the same settings. I did turn off kers after if that matters at all. I decided my issue was the motor wiring shorting out since I wasn't running a protector. Got that all sorted ofc.
what is this protector you're referring to? I thought your controller had burned out the first time due to too much reverse current from the motor when coasting downhill? or did you discover it was a separate issue with the motor wiring that cause the controller to burn out?
#13554
overdoser wrote:
Thu Aug 01, 2019 11:07 pm
what is this protector you're referring to? I thought your controller had burned out the first time due to too much reverse current from the motor when coasting downhill? or did you discover it was a separate issue with the motor wiring that cause the controller to burn out?
Just the stock plastic piece the motor wire goes through (it covers the wheel nut). Wasn't running it since it didn't work with the Zero motor (I flipped the forks so it fit).

I was on flat ground wasn't even braking when it let go. I discovered the wire insulation at the base of the wheel nut was worn through and wiring was frayed and exposed. I figure this was the issue, a short of some sort which at speed sent the wrong voltage somewhere it wasn't supposed to be and boom fried. Are you overvolting at all? That would be another cause of it blowing up. I don't overvolt as it's fast enough and I want to keep good range in it :)
#13659
oh I guess your controller shorted out due to your unique situation with the frayed wires. I had my motor mounted opposite side of the stock motor with plenty of slack and even had the plastic cover piece on to protect the cable. I don't know how to overvolt the motor and but I did lower the power constant to 38000. Not sure if that's what caused it or my constant holding down throttle on downhills. Perhaps I was supposed to just let it coast? I have the stock motor back on but really tempted to put back the bird motor. Just don't want to fry another controller and need to figure out the exact cause before trying again. :cry: :?
#13996
Hi guyes,

regarding the burned mainboard of the motor control.
We do sell Xiaomi scooters. Both as M365 so M365 PRO. We have two M365PRO with stock parts and burned our motor control. My guess is, that those burnes are because of the electric generated from the motor back to the board. As you go downhill or hack the cooster for no speed limit and even worse lower the KERS to weak or no KERS. Than the electric from motor has to end up somwhere, and thats the load of the motor control board and those Voltage shoot through some SMD chips and burn it out.
This is my understanding. If the board would be fault from the manufacturing, than it woul goes just a few km and will not happend after some days of usage ?
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