An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Discuss the Segway Ninebot ES and Ninebot Max Kick Scooter in this Forum. Topics include the Segway-Ninebot app, hardware, street riding, etc.
By lostinla
So this is a total kludge, but in case anyone is interested:

I ran across a cannibalized Segway MAX a couple of weeks ago in a dumpster: no box on top, no battery, no controller, and all the wires and connectors were trashed. Basically a frame with wheels.

Yay! Project scooter!

Since all the guts were missing, I took apart my M365 and installed the battery, controller, and dash board; I spliced all the wires with a pile of WAGO connectors I had handy and to my surprise, it works perfectly!

But with the stock M365 board, it felt a little pokey. I had a PRO board that I'd been meaning to install, so I dropped it in, flashed it, and it's much better.

Next step: I plan to install a second M365 battery pack in parallel -- there's enough room in the bottom of the MAX to hold two M365 batteries on-end.

As far as the user experience goes, the MAX feels like a beefed-up M365. I've always preferred the M365 over the ES2-4s. The ES models always felt a little rickety to me, and I hated the clack-CLACK whenever I'd hit a bump. The MAX compares favorably to the Bird One in terms of ride feel. The larger wheels make a huge difference on rough pavement and when going from the street-to-sidewalk. The small wheels on previous scooters would tend to tramline if you went from the street to the sidewalk at much less than a 90° angle --i.e., the front wheel might make the transition but the rear would want to ride the line of the driveway apron and as often as not result in a spill. But the larger wheels make the transition much more smoothly and safely.

Still, I'm looking forward to a proper conversion solution and hoping someone smarter than me figures it out and shares the info. I'm watching the local auctions to find an intact MAX!


By lostinla
Is there a source for replacement bezels (the plastic cover over the dash control board)?

Anyone run across these anywhere? The M365 bezels are too small.


By Hou Song
lurkinglime wrote:
Wed Nov 13, 2019 11:34 pm
Bfizzle wrote:
Wed Nov 13, 2019 5:32 pm
I successfully converted a Lyft Ninebot Max using 450w motor controller.

Took out the ESC and wired to the 450w motor controller

Brakes I used the low braking wire on the 450w controller. The brake lever has three wires red black and blue.

I took out the hall type sensor inside the brake lever and replaced it with a 10w 300VDC Reed magnetic switch and just glue it just close enough when the lever is pressed the magnet switche activates. I connected the blue and black together to one of the low brake wiring and the red to the other wire

Hall wires connected color to color
And the same with the 3 motor wires

And for the battery I installed two switches one to bypass the negative line going to the BMS and one to connect the negative line to the BMS for charging purposes.

If you don’t bypass the BMS the motor will cut off within a few seconds when riding it

And as far as headlight and brake light I bought a 12-60v LED headlight tail light kit and just connected it directly to the 36v negative and positive power line.

I’ve attached a switch to the positive and the orange wiring from the controller to turn on and off the power

The controller has 3 speeds I shorted the black and white for high speed

I’ve attached some messy photos
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You can avoid all the switches. Cut the negative lead between the BMS and the XT60 connector, then splice in a wire between the negative terminal on the battery and the input to the BMS, and solder that to the cut end from your XT60. This way you can still charge normally, but your primary output has a negative connection before the BMS.
Hi guys, how is the battery cable connected, is there a picture?

By jpedro20
Rosario wrote:
Tue Nov 12, 2019 7:36 pm
Guys I fucked up! I installed the display of an ES4 to unlock the speed but by mistake I updated the firmware when it was connected. Now it doesn't turn on anymore or better I have to keep the key pressed otherwise it turns off and an error appears 19.
I will probably have overwritten something on the software level. How can I restore everything?
Is there a hard reset or a way to load new firmware?
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I have the same problem.
how to solve?

By Julune
benhall847 wrote:
Fri Nov 15, 2019 9:00 pm
Merk8.0 wrote:
Fri Nov 15, 2019 6:48 pm
What if we are looking at this wrong, we are just looking at one end of the cable that’s plugged into the controller, what about the other end of the cable that plugs into the board, I’m thinking they could be cross wired and that’s why some people are blowing boards or getting error codes To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
Follow the stock G30 wiring.
The Lyft controller is the same, but will be locked.

You'll require a new controller + board or an unknown method to unlock the current controller.

Either way - follow the stock G30 wiring if you don't want to fry your board.

Also - Ebay now has stock g30 dash to controller wires if you want to play it safe and just buy one ... %7Ciid%3A1
If I am following this correctly, one would need a stock wiring, controller and board and it will roll out the door? I have been trying to research the best fix for the past few weeks.

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