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Discuss the Segway Ninebot ES and Ninebot Max Kick Scooter in this Forum. Topics include the Segway-Ninebot app, hardware, street riding, etc.
By Rosario
Posts
#17327
Guys I fucked up! I installed the display of an ES4 to unlock the speed but by mistake I updated the firmware when it was connected. Now it doesn't turn on anymore or better I have to keep the key pressed otherwise it turns off and an error appears 19.
I will probably have overwritten something on the software level. How can I restore everything?
Is there a hard reset or a way to load new firmware?
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By UsernameUnavailable
Posts
#17328
Lyft MAX's have very different wiring from the ESC to the BLE.
You're getting E10 because the BLE is getting power, but there is no valid data communication down to the ESC.

SPIN's MAX BLE -> ESC wiring is much more closer to retail wiring.
(With that said, I've put a Lyft ESC into a SPIN and it does not work.)

I created a wiring diagram comparing the wires/plugs seen on Lyft and SPIN's MAX's.
It needs a final verification before I post it; I don't need anyone frying any dashboards, etc.

By Chessnutt
Posts
#17331
UsernameUnavailable wrote:
Tue Nov 12, 2019 8:30 pm
Lyft MAX's have very different wiring from the ESC to the BLE.
You're getting E10 because the BLE is getting power, but there is no valid data communication down to the ESC.

SPIN's MAX BLE -> ESC wiring is much more closer to retail wiring.
(With that said, I've put a Lyft ESC into a SPIN and it does not work.)

I created a wiring diagram comparing the wires/plugs seen on Lyft and SPIN's MAX's.
It needs a final verification before I post it; I don't need anyone frying any dashboards, etc.
I connected the retail way on both.
On the spin there is no error using a retail dashboard.
It turns on but the motor is locked and the brake light blinks on and off. It shows in the Segway app but can’t pair when ask to push the power button.

On the Lyft it gives me an error 10 and the motor is not locked.

If I use the dashboard that came with the Spin and connecting it like the retail model it’ll show error 32 on the Spin ESC but doesn’t show anything on a Lyft ESC.

By testing these two scooter it shows that the ESC are different on both. Just have to figure a way to dump the firmware.

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By Mattr567
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#17341
Just caught up.

I guess we'll see when the retail ESC arrives, that's when we'll know where the problem lies. I figured they would make one universal ESC but I guess not? For sure I think the Spin dash isn't gonna be different to a retail one at all, with the stock plug and everything.

I swear we're just missing something. Has anyone gotten the stock Max battery working with a M365 controller? That would be the easiest solution that retains all the Max's benefits.

By Chessnutt
Posts
#17344
Mattr567 wrote:
Wed Nov 13, 2019 2:01 pm
Just caught up.

I guess we'll see when the retail ESC arrives, that's when we'll know where the problem lies. I figured they would make one universal ESC but I guess not? For sure I think the Spin dash isn't gonna be different to a retail one at all, with the stock plug and everything.

I swear we're just missing something. Has anyone gotten the stock Max battery working with a M365 controller? That would be the easiest solution that retains all the Max's benefits.
The spin dashboard looks identical to the retail model

By Bfizzle
Posts
#17354
I successfully converted a Lyft Ninebot Max using 450w motor controller.

Took out the ESC and wired to the 450w motor controller

Brakes I used the low braking wire on the 450w controller. The brake lever has three wires red black and blue.

I took out the hall type sensor inside the brake lever and replaced it with a 10w 300VDC Reed magnetic switch and just glue it just close enough when the lever is pressed the magnet switche activates. I connected the blue and black together to one of the low brake wiring and the red to the other wire

Hall wires connected color to color
And the same with the 3 motor wires

And for the battery I installed two switches one to bypass the negative line going to the BMS and one to connect the negative line to the BMS for charging purposes.

If you don’t bypass the BMS the motor will cut off within a few seconds when riding it

And as far as headlight and brake light I bought a 12-60v LED headlight tail light kit and just connected it directly to the 36v negative and positive power line.

I’ve attached a switch to the positive and the orange wiring from the controller to turn on and off the power

The controller has 3 speeds I shorted the black and white for high speed

I’ve attached some messy photos
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By lurkinglime
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#17366
Bfizzle wrote:
Wed Nov 13, 2019 5:32 pm
I successfully converted a Lyft Ninebot Max using 450w motor controller.

Took out the ESC and wired to the 450w motor controller

Brakes I used the low braking wire on the 450w controller. The brake lever has three wires red black and blue.

I took out the hall type sensor inside the brake lever and replaced it with a 10w 300VDC Reed magnetic switch and just glue it just close enough when the lever is pressed the magnet switche activates. I connected the blue and black together to one of the low brake wiring and the red to the other wire

Hall wires connected color to color
And the same with the 3 motor wires

And for the battery I installed two switches one to bypass the negative line going to the BMS and one to connect the negative line to the BMS for charging purposes.

If you don’t bypass the BMS the motor will cut off within a few seconds when riding it

And as far as headlight and brake light I bought a 12-60v LED headlight tail light kit and just connected it directly to the 36v negative and positive power line.

I’ve attached a switch to the positive and the orange wiring from the controller to turn on and off the power

The controller has 3 speeds I shorted the black and white for high speed

I’ve attached some messy photos
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You can avoid all the switches. Cut the negative lead between the BMS and the XT60 connector, then splice in a wire between the negative terminal on the battery and the input to the BMS, and solder that to the cut end from your XT60. This way you can still charge normally, but your primary output has a negative connection before the BMS.

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By LAskooter213
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#17368
Fuck. Now Im scared to ride the max if its gonna fuck up my love for the m365. Ive got so many and I love them all dearly. But guess I gotta try it if its as good as yall say.
And so you know, wheels battery and m365 stock controller go together like slutty chicks and hard dicks. You wont blow the controller. Not at 58 volts. I burned controllers at 61 volts and above, while braking from a high speed. Just fyi. And Ive been running that combo (wheels batt/m365 controller) for awhile and its been bulletproof. I use stock m365 motors though. Other motors may pull more amps and burn up controllers. make sure to push the mosfets down onto the heat sinks and use some thermal paste. Try to give the controller some airflow to cool it off too. and use better connectors than the cheap spade connectors the motor has on the motor phase wires. Shit gets hot there. I have a flir thermal imager and its taught me a lot about prolonging the life of the controllers. heat is the enemy. That and being overly electrically brave, which I often am.
we try not to let the smoke out but sometimes it finds a way
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By 365GUY
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#17369
Just the man I was hoping would provide some much needed insight into the battery situation I got going. Ok, so how the fuck do I make this bitch go if it’s throwing error 21 all the time? Obviously we got nothing plugged into the bms 3 port on the 365 controller right? Because the wheels battery has no external wires to talk to a controller other than the main wires and the charger wires.

So when I hook everything up all I get is a scooter that beeps at me like I cheated on it and refuses to go out and roll hard. Basically the bitch isn’t happy and she’s fucking up my desire to ride her fast.

Why you think my bitch is playing hard to get ?

FYI I’m running stock 365 controller, 365 pro dash, (2) 60v batteries in parallel obviously.
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By LAskooter213
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#17374
What I did personally is just take the speaker on the dash and pinch it gently with a pair of pliers. It will change tone and the volume will decrease. Really all you are doing is mostly breaking it. Just squeeze until your satisfied. I like em where I can barley hear them without my ear being right next to it.

Cheap and dirty bro. Just the way I like it.

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