An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Discuss the Segway Ninebot ES and Ninebot Max Kick Scooter in this Forum. Topics include the Segway-Ninebot app, hardware, street riding, etc.
By DirtScoot
#11370
ThrowAway33 wrote:
Wed May 29, 2019 4:11 am
Well, i converted the first of the couple scooters I got. I realized that I’d bought an es1/2 controller after I had disassembled the scooter. If you’re converting an es4 be sure the controller is an es4 controller. The difference is the connection bus for the external battery.

Also, the conversion was fairly difficult for me. It was hard to get the battery and controller out. Took a pair of vise grip needle nose and a long sharp pokey-hook thing to get the plastic retaining disk out that held the controller in place. Not too bad after that though, as long as you don’t encounter any stripped or over tightened screws.
Where did you find an ES4 specific controller? I've been looking everywhere and can't find one. They all say ES1/2/3/4 compatible, and I can only assume they do not have the wiring provisions for the external battery found on the ES4.

Originally made the mistake of plugging in the 5-pin Lyft controller harness to the 4-pin ES dashboard I got from Amazon, and of course, it fried instantly. I have a backup dashboard, but need to find an ES4 controller that will work.

Thanks in advance.
By ThrowAway33
#11744
DirtScoot wrote:
Tue Jun 04, 2019 3:59 pm
ThrowAway33 wrote:
Wed May 29, 2019 4:11 am
Well, i converted the first of the couple scooters I got. I realized that I’d bought an es1/2 controller after I had disassembled the scooter. If you’re converting an es4 be sure the controller is an es4 controller. The difference is the connection bus for the external battery.

Also, the conversion was fairly difficult for me. It was hard to get the battery and controller out. Took a pair of vise grip needle nose and a long sharp pokey-hook thing to get the plastic retaining disk out that held the controller in place. Not too bad after that though, as long as you don’t encounter any stripped or over tightened screws.
Where did you find an ES4 specific controller? I've been looking everywhere and can't find one. They all say ES1/2/3/4 compatible, and I can only assume they do not have the wiring provisions for the external battery found on the ES4.

Originally made the mistake of plugging in the 5-pin Lyft controller harness to the 4-pin ES dashboard I got from Amazon, and of course, it fried instantly. I have a backup dashboard, but need to find an ES4 controller that will work.

Thanks in advance.
I just looked on eBay. The first one I bought I wasn’t paying attention and it ended up being an ES2 controller. The second one I made sure the picture showed the bus connector for the external battery, meaning that it had to be ES4 compatible, or that’s my hope at least. I just completed installing it and the installation went great, but I’m not sure that the battery is actually recognized by the dashboard or that it’s charging yet. Gonna let it sit on the charger for a few hours and see.

Edit: Looks like both batteries took a charge, although the last battery indicator (4th one, all the way on the right) on the dashboard is still flashing when I turn it on. I’m using the same charger that I used for my M365 by the way :)
Last edited by ThrowAway33 on Sat Jun 15, 2019 9:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
By Kiki626
#11794
So to recap, the lyfts have a special controller with special connectors to drive the lyft dashboard at higher voltages. That explains why everyone is blowing stock dash's when hooking them up.

So you need :
Stock dashboard
Stock controller (or from a bird or equivalent)
Reflash the controller you got from the bird, then you'll have a personal ES4 scooter and the battery will work.
By Kiki626
#11876
Did you notice any other wiring differences? I got a new dash and controller and the scooter won’t turn on. Battery light inside flashes blue, dash doesn’t light up, and when I plug in the charger the tail LEDs flash what appears to be an error code? 1-5 or 1-9

I tried disconnecting the external battery, checking the wiring, etc. but couldn’t find anything wrong.

Anyone know what the problem might be? It’s a former lyft scooter I got an an auction

Edit: it was a bad controller, the guy from amazon clearly shipped me a knock off, it says n1nebot instead of Ninebot and it’s missing a connector. Real nice.

In other news the lyfts use version 1.3.9, I’m going to experiment with the lyft controller and see if I can get it to play nice with the dashboard. I believe I need to solder/move the connector from the high voltage location to the standard location and dump that 5 wire plug in favor of a 4 wire standard. I just happen to have an extra one

Edit: this worked, you move the connector from the nonstandard location to the std one like you see in the pic earlier in this thread.
By Mr.GooGoo
#11908
Kiki626 wrote:
Sat Jun 15, 2019 1:35 am
So to recap, the lyfts have a special controller with special connectors to drive the lyft dashboard at higher voltages. That explains why everyone is blowing stock dash's when hooking them up.

So you need :
Stock dashboard
Stock controller (or from a bird or equivalent)
Reflash the controller you got from the bird, then you'll have a personal ES4 scooter and the battery will work.

Not just Lyft, Spin has 2 5-pin connectors, 1 up top for the controller and 1 down below for the gps/sim. My Spin was in locked status so I tried connecting the handlebar to the bottom just to see if it would unlock, I heard *pop*pop*, the controller fried instantly.

So anything that powers the gps/sim will fry a stock dash if connected.
Last edited by Mr.GooGoo on Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#11911
Hey guys, the Lyft GPS units are not necessarily running at particularly high voltages… But you will notice that unlike all the other companies, lyft gps units don’t have a battery in them so they are actually receiving 100% of their power directly from the scooters and that power is sent as 36v right up to the brain and thats where it is reduced to the Relatively small voltages needed to run the GPS and the dashboard. Since it’s a piece of custom made equipment that is designed to receive all 36 bolts directly from the battery, lift dashboards are perfectly capable of handling it, unfortunately since none of the other scooter companies have made the same modification their equipment is L prepared for a mainline Dose of everything the battery has to offer
By Igotit
#11917
So if you plug the brain into The wire that is supposed to go to the GPS since you can hold all mainline power in the 36 V well that kick the scooter on or you still have to go through the main board somehow
By ThrowAway33
#11996
Kiki626 wrote:
Mon Jun 17, 2019 10:50 pm
....

In other news the lyfts use version 1.3.9, I’m going to experiment with the lyft controller and see if I can get it to play nice with the dashboard. I believe I need to solder/move the connector from the high voltage location to the standard location and dump that 5 wire plug in favor of a 4 wire standard. I just happen to have an extra one

Edit: this worked, you move the connector from the nonstandard location to the std one like you see in the pic earlier in this thread.
Dude, thank you so much for trying this. Been wanting to move the pins and try that! What kind of speed did you get out of the scooter after? And did you have to reflash the controller after moving the pins/cable?
By Kiki626
#12076
Yeah I had to reflash it with the StLinkv2 wired directly to the controller like this: Image

After you flash you'll want to upgrade the BMS to the latest verison 1.4.1 I believe through the ninebot app and then flash a custom firmware on there afterwards to get some more speed.

I'm using a motor power constant of 48000, alternative throttle algorithm, and 1.3.9 custom firmware base.

Please remember NOT to bomb down a hill and think that hitting the electric brake is ever a good idea, it fries your board almost instantly. I think the Lyft controllers *might* not be complete crap since they got pretty involved with their buillds... the jury is still out on that though. I'll let you know if i fry mine.

I get get 20-25mph on flats I haven't pushed it too far yet though. Either way it seems unlocked now after flashing the controller.

I threw that green 5 wire socket away because I didnt know how it was actually wired in the socket.. didn't want to blow up a dash miswiring it. Having that second 4 wire socket laying around was key but if you do end up trying it let us all know how it worked out.

Cheers
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