An Electric Scooter Community on a Mission to Stamp out Transportation Mediocrity.

Discuss the Segway Ninebot ES and Ninebot Max Kick Scooter in this Forum. Topics include the Segway-Ninebot app, hardware, street riding, etc.
#12353
XavWolffe wrote:
Tue Jul 02, 2019 10:37 pm
:D

New control module installed, piece of cake.

Scooter works, and full control gained. Lights were fun to play with...
So you just replaced the whole control board? I have been struggling to try to get it to work by flashing the dashboard I got off amazon and nothing works. I’m about to just order a new control board and be done with it. Could you sent a link to which one you bought? Thanks
#12371
Freebird wrote:
Sun Jun 30, 2019 10:39 am
I'm pretty sure that it's just the control board. It detects a non-bird dashboard and starts sending garbage replies to it and makes it so it can't communicate with the Bird firmware'd controller. Once I flashed the control board, the clone dash works. I can even toggle sport modes on it. It still acts weird in that I have to hold the brake when I turn it on. If I don't , it keeps beeping and flashing tail lights. I haven't tried to fix the serial number yet and that might be the cause of the weirdness.

I had to solder wires to the SWIO, SWCLK, and GND. I used a hook probe to connect 3.3v on the ST-Link to one of the resistors labeled TVCC. Ignore the red circles:
Image
I haven't had time to do the last two steps yet. Maybe that will fix everything.

  1. Connect ST-Link to ESC
  2. In STUtility press control B and disable readout protection
  3. Open full bin file
  4. Press CTRL+P and click program
  5. Go to location 0x1FFFF7E8 Copy first 3 columns of bytes and replace at location 0x0801C1B4
  6. Change ESC to original ES2/4 serial number
I have connected the stlink to the esc but, I am unsure about what to do after that could you help/elaborate on your steps? Thanks!
#12386
Update...

Amazon link to the control module:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6P1CHL/re ... hDbQHCMPVN

Link for a dash and control module pairing with the current best shipping time:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QY7BRGG/re ... hDbWXCRYQT

I'm pretty sure you can get better pricing with similar shipping times from banggood or AliExpress.

The new control module gives full control over lights and what not via the app.

I did disassemble both the bird and the oem modules to compared the hardware, they are identical, which makes me believe that flashing oem firmware should solve the problem with the new Bird update.

When removing the control module remember that the battery must also come out. Easiest way to accomplish this is to turn it upside down after removing all the screws and the two stopper caps. The guide rails inside the tube narrow 1/32 of an inch at the bottom motor side. The battery/control unit will just slide out of the top of the tube with a little nudge.

Swapping the control module takes about 30 minutes over all for complete disassembly and reassembly.

I'll be buying the stlink stuff next paycheck as I have 20 some odd bird control modules and really don't want to have to replace all of them.

My next project is converting to a dual motor unit to more easily haul my 300+ pound but up hills. The single motor unit is beast for the most part, but I think the dual motor will reduce the massive slowdown.
#12389
@XavWolffe , Our friends at Scooterhacking claim that the cheap clone dashboards can be flashed and then they behave as OEM. I've successfully made a Bird controller OEM, but can't change the S/N because my dash is clone. If I get a chance tonight I'll try to flash my clone dash. If you got 20 to convert, I'd definitely recommend making a jig so you don't have to solder.
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#12576
where did you get these test clips? losing my mind trying to solder and this looks more for me
Freebird wrote:
Thu Jul 04, 2019 8:43 am
@XavWolffe , Our friends at Scooterhacking claim that the cheap clone dashboards can be flashed and then they behave as OEM. I've successfully made a Bird controller OEM, but can't change the S/N because my dash is clone. If I get a chance tonight I'll try to flash my clone dash. If you got 20 to convert, I'd definitely recommend making a jig so you don't have to solder.
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