Electric Scooter Forum for Scooter Enthusiasts, Scooter Chargers, and Scooter Mechanics.

Discuss the Segway Ninebot ES Kick Scooter in this Forum. Topics include the Segway-Ninebot app, hardware, street riding, and much more.
By Ayden619
My rear wheel drive scooter is a es4 with new spin motor on back I had it working but took it apart to mess with it I plugged the bars back into the deck and now it makes a loud vibrating noise from motor and doesn't work the same

By FIN_teejii
Andain wrote:
Fri Jun 07, 2019 3:44 am
Hi guys,
I had a run on my ES4 the other day and after a steep hill it "coughed" and the front wheel (motor) started rattling. It almost sounded like something got stuck against the wheel, but there isn't.
I just got same proble, did you find solution to fix it?

By Ukjent82
Clones are exactly same as original, other than the mosfets.

Clone boards have 110 amp power mosfets and the original Es2 has 140 amp power mosfets.

I used a clone board and changed these to Irlb3040pbs mosfets rated for 180 Amp, and my god these make all the difference fuck original board, when you can make the clone better than original..

If you make sure to add copper and solder to the big tracks going to the mosfets and battery, you will hopefully have the scooter running mor power as you can lower MPC.
Well you might burn fets from then on hahaha

I also have SNSC 1.1 rental motherboard working without GPS and all this knowledge I got from ripping 3 clone boards for learning To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
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By Stam
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I had the same issue, my ES4 scooter had some weird quirks after I installed a sudo OEM 3rd party board. Flickering headlight, weird top speeds that'd seem inconsistent and constantly drop and rise slightly, eventually after one last E-break it started making noise and had reduced the motor's acceleration and break power significantly and caused a horrible noise. I replaced the front wheel motor with a different one thinking it was the motor, but the issue was the same with a different motor installed.
I took out the control unit and inspected it to find two blown tracks on the underside the circuit board. I used a small bit of bare wire and some solder to fix the broken tracks. This didn't fix my issue completely, it started acting as if the brake was constantly applied and would power off if I tried to use the brake or accelerator.
I reexamined the control board with a voltmeter and found the blown tracks I had just fixed had a short circuit across them. I removed a mosfet the blown tracks were connected to and the mosfet itself tested positive for continuity across all 3 leads, so it was broken/blown & the source of my short circuit. I desoldered a mosfet from a rental control board my scooter came with and soldered it onto the slot I removed the broken mosfet from on the 3rd party board. After I replaced that mosfet, the issues I mentioned all went away. The headlight doesn’t flicker or dim and the motor can accelerate and brake at full power, without that terrible noise.

My 3rd party board had a weak mosfet that slowly and eventually died after some use. This caused too much electricity to surge the following tracks and blew them like a fuse. After replacing the mosfet with an OEM mosfet and repairing the blown tracks with some wire and solder my issues disappeared.

If you decide to attempt this fix, make sure to drain the large capacitor on the middle of the board by taking a metal object with an insulated handle and touching it across both leads of the capacitor. It’ll make a decent spark so be sure to do this away from flammables and be prepared to flitch a little To view images REGISTER or LOGIN for full access.
. Also handle the mosfets and board with care since a soldering iron makes everything it touches super hot.

By rem
Had the same problem. I tried to check the wheel without putting the tube on and its worked fine. When I put the tube on the noice was back. I checked all the cables and fixed some of them that lookt bad. Then it worked fine. 90% is the cables!

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